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The Fifth annual WinterBash regatta hosted by Humpybong Yacht Club attracted 151 boats last weekend .. We had 121 boats registered by friday morning and more registrations were made on both days of the event. Competitors came from Gladstone to Coffs Harbour, Drizzle interspersed with showers on Saturday didn't put as damper on the highly competitive three races held but Sunday was sunny with strengthening easterly winds to provide a beam fast ride for the divisions talking part in the marathon from Woody Point south to Sandgate, north to Scarborough and return to Woody point pier.

As far as I know there are 2 different traveller setups on a maricat. The older version has a swivel cleat attached to the traveller (the bit with wheels that slides across the rear beam). The newer version has a separate swivel cleat mounted to the front of the rear beam. With both versions the rope runs through the swivel cleat, back through the traveller (between the 2 wheels) and ties off through a saddle under the rear beam at the centre. The free end is the traveller sheet. This is used to set the traveller position on the rear beam by locking the rope in the swivel cleat at the chosen

Screws or rivets (I prefer screws). Use only 1 rivet in the rear hole, to fix the tiller in the casting (The front hole is what causes them to break)

The tiller Al tubing is an oddball size. I sourced the closest possible I could find at my local specialist Al shop. It was slightly too big for the castings, so I had to machine the castings out enough to get it in. I only did one initially (the broken one, naturally). It has held up well so far. The other one let go a few years later, when I was about 2km off the coast of Torquay, out in Bass Strait. That could have been a bit exciting, except that it was my upwind rudder on a ~15km reach along the coastline, so I didn't really need it that day anyway 😄 . Incidentally, if

I don't know if it's possible to buy a new replacement. Bris Cat centre might have them. The spare alum tubes I have are still attached to the rudder castings but i could drill out the rivets & just send the tubes if you're stuck for a replacement. I have a pic but it's too large to attach to this forum. I could FB message it or text it if you're interested. Regards Jish

$20 AU, plus postage

Just bought a H16 in great condition for its age. 30 years old and always garaged. The mast has been left outside and has a lot of pitting on it. Its the entire length of one side only, with a couple of holes right the way through. I'm guessing it was a stainless/aluminium reaction. So I'm after a new mast. Any suggestions where else I should be looking? Do second hand masts come up for sale often, or am I going to have to look at buying something new? Greg (a newbie)

Trampoline rail repaired and finally got some time to have a practice run of rigging the cat. All worked well and all the parts seem to be there. Didn’t set up the jib but all seems intact. All sails feel crisp and in good condition. Looking forward to getting it out on the water when restrictions are lifted.

One of my projects this weekend was to fix my transom. I did the following: 1. After trying unsuccessfully to remove the pintle screws I ground them off to remove the pintles 2. I hit the screws a lot (as mentioned by Darcy) which eventually broke away the inside piece of alum moulding. I had rear hatches which made the whole game possible so first order would be to put these in! 3. I did a lot of pulling out and cleaning up of all the rubbish from inside. There is quite a big 'lip' all around the deck to hull joint. I elected not to remove this.