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Pirate last won the day on September 5 2016

Pirate had the most liked content!

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15 Good

About Pirate

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 10/06/1960


  • Biography
    32 years ashore ......
    yar, I'm in need to be findin me sea legs again
  • Location
    Western Victoria
  • Interests
    too many and too varied
  • Occupation
    I build stuff
  • Class of Catamaran
    impara cadet then mossie and now ???????

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  1. My 2cents worth...... For starters dont just look at whats being sailed at the local clubs, have a real close look at the social side of the club as well ..... nothing worse than having the right boat but not fitting in with the members that are there. Be prepared to travel and have a look at more than just the nearest club, you'll enjoy it far more if the boat AND you fit in. Secondly, $5k ........ seriously ???? You've just discovered our sport and really are taking a big financial step by pouring in that sort of coin on something that may not be you cup of
  2. 1/ Prince is spot on with the hooking sail description and what you have described is exactly a hooked main problem...... so..... 2/ Question.... have you adjusted the batterns since ownership or altered the rig setup ??? 3/ Have you contacted the original owner for assistance ? That would be my next step seeing you said he'd done well with the setup. 4/ Other factors can effect pointing ability, mast rake, your body position, incorrect rig tension, etc etc...... 1 or 2 "issues" can usually be sorted easily enough, its a nightmare when the
  3. Yes You'll need to make a former (or die) that fits the masts profile on the side of the bend, you also need 2 more formers that fit the opposite side. Set the outer formers as far apart as possible...... thick cardboard to line the formers will also help in spreading the load evenly into the mast section. Use a hand opperated pipe bender and a measuring tape to measure the distance you push the mast out to, this will give you a referance point to return to if you under-do the re-bending. If you dont have access to a pipe bender a bottle jack and a chain will also work but
  4. My apologies. ....... Seems the eBay stuff is gone but they are still showing some bits on the website for tjose that are members.... http://m.bcf.com.au/ & search "harken"
  5. Yeah I'd say the clearance sale is done & dusted. I managed to get 4 blocks for my new 12:1 downhaul, two 57mm triples, two 57mm singles, a cheek block, and a couple of other "spares" eBay is showing nothing now so it must be sold-out. ...... Ive been told they are clearing the stock to make way for a re-badged brand under their own logo..... Hopefully they'll retain the sailing gear even tho it was a slow mover. I'd much perfer a te-badged harken block over a "Masters" block but having said that and to be fair I've not had anything to do with the Masters blocks
  6. Or this link for the online store..... http://search.bcf.com.au/search?w=harken&ts=m
  7. BCF are clearing Harken blocks at the moment.... 57mm triple blocks for $10 for example. They are doing this via the BCF app, online store, and through eBay. Just search "harken" at the store or eBay. Blocks only availavle online and are NOT available in the actual shops. Hope this link works Check out this item I found on eBay: http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=252384962027&alt=web Happy bargin hunting
  8. Did you find the Facebook group ???
  9. There were a few last year, maybe 6 or 7 and mostly from Geelong area ...... None came this year tho... If your on Facebook then search for ..... Yachting Western Victoria Lots of pics etc and info for all western region sailing is through there. Also most of the clubs have associated pages for members use and info updates etc etc
  10. The Mozzie class doesn't have a section here on this board...... It uses an American based forum for its main tech use etc.... general chatting is largely on the Facebook group Search..... The racing cat You should get a link from there to the forum. Or google catsailor.com Dot com and dot net are 2 different things ; )
  11. Tend to agree with Rick..... You can actually weaken the area by over doing it, I'd go to your local hardware shop and get a much finer bit for the router ..... I'd be looking for one thats a max of 10mm wide but with a pencil point, set its depth to 2mm and just take away enough material to get clean timber. A vee shaped cut will be quite strong and use a lot less filler.... google "vee butt weld" images. Yeah its steel related but its the strength issue your chasing and this is simply stealing from one trade and applying to another. I use a router/trimmer most of the
  12. Putty spraygun....... Dont waste your time or money You want a gravity feed spraygun, your local panel beater shop should be able to help you out here...... cost for a reasonable gravity fed gun is around $130, any more than that is just an extravagance you wont need. Hi-build primer self-airiates once its applied, by simply adding thinners it magically becomes ordinary primer...... I use a general purpose primer from "Motorspray", unthinned it acts exactly the same as hi-build primer, then I just thin it down to act as a normal primer. ....... cost from my local AutoPro
  13. Tips: Stripped screw holes...... Resin in a match (not the red phosphorus bit)...... Or Wrap the new screw in Teflon tape, fill the hole with resin and insert the screw. The Teflon will srop the thread from becoming stuck in place by the resin, it also acts as an excellent water barrier DON'T use car bog on plywood, bog is designed to expand and contract at a similar rate to a cars steel panel, it will crack away from the plywood and subsquently leak..... it also leaves unsightly hairline marks in the paint once it starts to break away. Get some chopped mat
  14. Park it in the sun on a hot day.... then tension it...... leave it for an hour.... Hose it down with cold water and let it dry and then get hot again..... re tension it again. Should come up as tight as a drum
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