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billygoat

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Everything posted by billygoat

  1. The tiller Al tubing is an oddball size. I sourced the closest possible I could find at my local specialist Al shop. It was slightly too big for the castings, so I had to machine the castings out enough to get it in. I only did one initially (the broken one, naturally). It has held up well so far. The other one let go a few years later, when I was about 2km off the coast of Torquay, out in Bass Strait. That could have been a bit exciting, except that it was my upwind rudder on a ~15km reach along the coastline, so I didn't really need it that day anyway 😄 . Incidentally, if
  2. Quite a while ago... Re-releasing the bolt rope ended up being a bad move. Didn't move at all (ie it was as shrunk as it was going to get and not causing any problems) but I had difficulty sewing the extension piece back in position such that it wasn't prone to jumping out of the track when hoisting. At the same time, I scrubbed the track with dish detergent and replaced the mast top halyard sheaves with sliding door rollers. Now the sail is much easier to hoist and drop. Not sure what caused the improvement. I suspect the sheaves were binding on their axles under load.
  3. Not my event, but thinking of entering. http://www.torquaysailingclub.org.au/aust-day-regatta.html Ocean race for off the beach cats, Torquay to Anglesea and return. Anybody done it? I'd be on my Maricat 4.3 (sloop, solo). It's silly, but my biggest concern is how to launch. I usually sail inland lakes and launch from ramps, directly off my trailer; I don't own beach wheels. Nor a 4x4 vehicle to even get my trailer close to the water . So getting my boat from firm land, across Torquay beach (and back again) is a headscratcher. I daresay there will be a few hands around
  4. Victoria has weird rules allowing standard 6x4 box trailers to not be registered. The rule is specific to length - a 7x4 needs rego - and I believe a trailer designed to carry a boat is also specifically mentioned as requiring rego. So your cat trailer fails on all fronts, and should be registered. There's enough confusion and apathy about trailer rego in Victoria that you can probably get away with it for a while and plead ignorance. I know of quite a few Victorians whose boat trailers have number plates, but which haven't paid rego in years. Looks official enough, and apparent
  5. Took a look at my sail today and found that this has already been done. The bolt rope is hand-stitched about a foot up the luff, and there's a corresponding extra length of generic rope in the bolt rope sleeve. I've unpicked the hand stitching - will see how things move next time I hoist the sail.
  6. I actually furled the jib when the wind came up, and intended to race cat-rigged. Milling around before the start... it was awful. Just wouldn't steer. I actually rounded up into the wind and "parked" in irons in the middle of the lake, walked out the bow, untied the reef, unfurled the jib and reconnected the sheet. I didn't need the power, but the boat is so much nicer to sail with the jib up. Especially now I know how to depower the jib and keep the bows above the waterline. I very rarely sail cat-rigged. It's like an entirely different, completely unfamiliar boat. I woul
  7. This is true, but once the forestay is tight, it doesn't change length much. The sail itself is much stretchier. I had my sail rigged "short", so the luff stretched quite a bit under static rig tension. Then I tried rigging it longer, so the luff didn't stretch as much under static rig tension. Tensioning the mainsheet will, of course, add tension to the forestay, but the wire doesn't elongate to any significant extent, so the jib luff doesn't elongate either. Almost the opposite of mainsail luff tension, I found that a tighter jib luff causes the sail to bag up, and g
  8. Halyard pulleys sorted. As a stop gap at least. I was in Geelong this afternoon where my "local" chandlery is. Turns out they go sailing Sunday afternoon and shut the shop. Good for them, but I have no plans to get anywhere near a chandlery again, any time soon 😕 Bunnings to the rescue. Sliding door wheels are a lot like mast head sheaves. They all have ball bearings rather than being plain nylon, but there's a heavy duty option that's all stainless in the guts (unknown "heavy duty" polymer in the wheel). 32mm diameter, about the right thickness, fits on the bearing pin. That will do
  9. I'm having a terrible time raising and lowering my mainsail. It's just getting stuck. This afternoon I almost couldn't pull the halyard out of the cleat at the mast head to lower the main - I ended up trucker-hitching it off the bow stay saddle for mechanical advantage, pulling all my weight on it, flexing the mast, completely unloading the forestay before it finally moved enough to uncleat. I'm not sure whether the sail is just not sliding in the track, or whether the pulleys at the mast head are stuffed. Well, I know the pulleys are stuffed. They're very old and worn. How big
  10. A new angle to add to this thread. I've been thinking a lot about jib shape and power. I've tended to have my jib luff as tight as a frogs bum. There is significant slack in the forestay when unrigged - a loop of cable at the head or tack. Rigged up, the sail stretches until the forestay takes the load, which pulls a lot of shape into the sail. Pulling on lots of jib sheet tends to pull the leech tight, still with a big belly in the sail. Also with a tendency to luff at relatively low pointing angles, because there's so much draft so far forward in the sail. So, lots of power in th
  11. I took a friend out for his first ever sail, and he immediately started looking for his own cat. Talked him out of a cheap H14 by finding an even cheaper old Mari. It's not in great shape, but suits our needs as a fix and learn project. First question - the new boat has a different dolphin striker to mine. He has a screw thread on the striker itself to tension the cable (mine has turnbuckle on the cable). Guessing they swapped to the later style for a reason. Replacing the striker cable as a matter of routine, should we go with a turnbuckle cable and ignore/remove the inbuilt st
  12. Cheers Darcy. We may have found a Mari in "project" condition, which he can park up next to his other projects while we cover the fundamentals on my boat.
  13. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F273627382847 I took a friend out on my Maricat for his first time yesterday. He's already shopping for his own 😂 I've recommended he pick up a cheap Mari or Windrush. There's a few H14s around at the moment but I'm hesitant to recommend one (for all the usual reasons that have been covered elsewhere). This one has a sail emblem I don't recognise, but looks half decent. Anyone know what it is?
  14. I usually sail sloop, but on very windy days sometimes leave the jib behind. I use two forestays when cat rigging, one when sloop rigging. I can furl my jib and convert to cat rig if things get desperate, but I don't rig a jib and not plan to use it.
  15. Warm and windy on my day off, so I declared the sailing season open today. Turned out a good day to demonstrate why it's wise to sail off a lee shore, especially when sailing solo in an isolated place like Lake Burrumbeet (near Ballarat). I pioneered a novel way to sail downwind, catching some wind in a billow of mainsail leech while dragging the mast along in the water beside the boat. Hmmm. That's not where the mast is supposed to go. Turns out, although I've been paranoid about checking the state of the plates under the side stay saddles... I haven't taken much notice o
  16. Pretty sure that's just camera angle. My striker is tight and in good nick. But I'll triple check next time I'm rigged and tensioned just to be sure.
  17. Pretty sure I'm using 10mm. Crappy rope though - the finest BCF had to offer. The nearest chandlery is 100km from here. I hadn't known about threading the blocks properly, so I've looked at some instructions and diagrams and worked out a better crossed-block routing. Seems better. You're right that you get some direct 1:1 effect on the boom until your overcome pulley friction, at which point it starts cranking the boom down as expected. I'd say that's the best of both worlds. You can see it in effect in this little vid from a couple of weeks ago: My b
  18. As Brittney would sing... oops I did it again Some more submarine action yesterday. Quite a bit of breeze (20 knots + gusts at Ballarat airport, about 15km away, maybe a bit more out on Lake Burrumbeet). Solo (~75kg), so I can't blame my forward hand for being too heavy this time. I was dipping the bows all day, so I was kinda ready when it went deep the first time. Dropped the mainsheet and recovered. Second time I was consciously trying to steer through the wind rather than depowering. I rounded up well when the bow dipped, but bore away too soon and
  19. I'd love to see a picture of your bridle traveller setup, Jimbo. If it's how I imagine, it sounds like the exact opposite of the no vang, mainsheet controlling boom lift arrangement that seems common on our Maris. I have tended to cleat the main more than I should. It might be friction in my aged pulleys or an overly stiff sheet, but I do find the main quite heavy to work, and it really tires me out. The cleat was set so that it would pull in to the cleat by default, unless I deliberately kicked the sheet out of the cams (which I try to do so I'm able to depower when I get scared ? ).
  20. Tried a few different rigging ideas today. First of all, I followed all your advice and lost my vang. Consciously tried to use the traveller more for trimming, keeping the mainsheet pulled on as much as possible to keep the boom down and power in the head of the sail. First observation with this setup is that sheeting out to depower in a gust is MUCH more effective. Boom lifts, leech opens and spills air very efficiently without having to swing the whole boom and sail out. Not so much sheet to pull back in to get the power back on. I think this is going to be a different, bu
  21. Thread resurrection! I took a newbie mate out for a sail today. Sloop rigged, about 160kg all up, in about 15 knots. He wasn't so keen on sliding back and snuggling with me on the back beam, so I was having to round up into the wind all the time to keep from submarining the downwind bow. Then we were about to go down the mine again, on a port tack... with a couple of kids struggling to control their 420 under spinaker on starboard reach, coming down upwind of us. If I rounded up we would have gone straight through them. Long story short, there's a whole lot
  22. No newbie question today - I'm generally on top of things now, making mods and repairs along the way as I need to. Just a video. I've taken to mounting an action cam under my jib furler. Gets some good footage. This was last Friday on Lake Burrumbeet (20km west of Ballarat). I had the day off work, and at 42dgC with a solid nor'westerly blowing, I had to make the most of it. It was pretty gusty and quite choppy for an inland lake, which added to the excitement. The wind picks up at about the 1:00 mark, and things really get moving :-D
  23. Zombie thread resurrection! Guess I'd better check in. I'm Mari #2418 (or #2353 on my other sail), parked in Ballarat, usually sailing on Lake Burrumbeet or Lake Wendouree. I've had my cat for a bit over a year. Prior to that I hadn't sailed much for 20 years, after sailing Skyrider, Flying 11, NS14 and a 16' skiff while growing up in Sydney. I rarely see another boat on the water when I'm out. Ballarat yacht club is fairly active, in their chosen classes, but I'm not really interested in racing and I find the wind better out on the big lake (Burrumbeet) than the
  24. The clear plastic tubing that connected my tillers to my crossbar (over the top of the broken flex links) went yellow and stiff, then split. Now I have new clear plastic tubing. The closest size Bunnings had was a bit loose, but nothing a couple of stainless hose clamps couldn't fix. Good for toe-in adjustments, I'm sure. I like the look of Pete's solution above. What are those ball joints meant to be from?
  25. I never had intact clips, but the levers secured themselves by going over-centre with a bit of stretch in the rope. Until one of the levers broke. I replaced it with a bit of ~12mm Al pipe which worked well until it bent. Now I have a cleat on each tiller. Much simpler. Especially for my sailing on shallow lakes, I can cleat my rudders at half-mast position which gives me some steering as I approach the shore. I have seen others suggesting a 2:1 pulley pull-down. I like this idea but haven't picked up any suitable pulleys yet. I've also seen lots of
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