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Everything posted by knobblyoldjimbo

  1. Darcy sells tiller arms second hand, Mick sells new ones. The issue you'll have is a) get it so the rudder drop down line goes through it and b) the bend so the Ackerman is right.
  2. How did it go. In the past I've found that it's dependent on the size of the line you have going through. I settled on stuff called Dinghy Light (I think) it comes from Robline and is an orange colour. I had to use it because 8mm line wouldn't go through the Harken triple top block the orange stuff was actually 5/16 which is a smidgy bit less than 8mm.
  3. Boat no 2782, sail no 37. Cat rigged. https://photos.app.goo.gl/BaTix7yR5VrYBZ2A9 Winner 2017-18 NSW state championships. Good registered trailer with new tyres and torsion suspension. 6:1 downhaul, 6 bearing traveller. Rigging and dolphin striker less than a year old. $1200 Pictures: https://photos.app.goo.gl/D8m7DUiAtVM3MpVu5 0403 079 718
  4. Note Darcy's note about 6mm in the other thread.
  5. Yes, about. I think mine were 52 from Jimmy Buckland. Sadly he's retired now.
  6. I think it's 8mm. Nothing fancy. Mine are on a 2:1 line so line from front of tiller, round block and into cleat. The block is tied to the rudder down thing. The cleats are alloy so pretty strong. When I first used them we had a windy day at Budgewoi. When I overstood the top mark and was close reaching to the mark the windward rudder came up. There would have been a lot of force. Once I got in I tweaked the little cam which fixed it easily.
  7. You could try using a tarp. Cut to shape and use good double sided tape to stick it together. Or use your wife's sewing machine but that might cause a permanent suspension of Saturday night treats!
  8. You can do quite a bit with what you have. 1. To allow the mast take that we use now (5.5m forests, 5m shrouds) you get a sailmaker to sew a D ring into the leech about 6" from the clew. Don't need to bother getting the foot cut away. It doesn't flap much. 2. The bolt rope has probably gone hard and shrunk. This creates a terrible shaped in the sail. If you examine the tack you'll see that the bolt rope has been sewn in. Cut the stitches and let the bolt rope slide up. This will get you a lot further. Alternatively replace the bolt rope. Attach some line to the end, cut the sti
  9. I think Mick's devices will cost a lot more than the CL257 cleats plus as Rodney says you need to set them so they release. This is done by sanding away at the fibreglass clamps. If you go too far you have to start again! The CL257s have a little screw that you turn.
  10. 3mm will do, spectra is best. I use Clamcleat CL257 cleats to hold them, they are alloy and release on impact.
  11. Best bet would be to take it to a local club that has cats, someone is likely to be able to help.
  12. Call Darcy, his phone number is in this section. Answer is yes but you'll need different forestay setup abd jib sheet brackets at the least. But, there are many who just sail with a mainsail. Once you master tacking they are a good single hander.
  13. Look through this forum and you'll find numbers for Mick Colecliff for anything new and Darcy Wilson for second hand. The Brisbane Catermaran centre will probably make you a new boat!
  14. Here you go, looks a bit convoluted here but basically you fill a bag with water and lean out on the righting line. I think righting took less time using my own body weight!
  15. Ask Darcy, he'll have one. Recently I sailed one of his Mari's with a Mid North Coast radial sail, very nice it was. James
  16. On one of my Maricats there wasn't a bag so I used one from Whitworths, doesn't need to be a large one, I think mine was small. You can tie it to the dolphin striker fitting if you don't want holes. That holds the righting rope. You definitely need one although in about ten years of 'catting I've only capsized about three times (I know, not trying hard enough!). One of the Paper Tiger guys had a small rope ladder tucked into a pocket that had a zip flap! He had a heart condition so couldn't easily get back on board. There are all sorts of bright ideas about righting poles etc but
  17. You have good adjustment in the mainsheet, pull in hard and tight uphill and the forestays will tighten, let off and it loosens. Bit like a backstay adjustment on lead mines.
  18. I did this with quite a recent sail. I put a short length of bolt rope (the white stuff, Bunnings will probably be ok) into the bottom just to make sure the sail isn't pulled out by the outhaul.
  19. From a Maricat sailer so observations only. 1. Rudders need to be as far down as possible. On the Maris we have them tucked under a bit. This results in a nice light touch. Going upwind just a little weather helm provides a positive pressure so that if you let go the boat rounds up into the wind. 2. That Becket you mention looks to be a vang. In the Maris nobody uses them any more. I tried for a while and it does provide a small speed improvement dead downwind. Big hassle if there are two people though. It also causes problems if you capsize as it prevents the leech, back of the sail
  20. Most recent sails, ie built in the last ten years are all good. The Eastwind sail I use must be about 10 years old and it still works like a new one, although it has only been lightly used. Mine is cross cut, the fancy ones are radial cut but there's no real difference. At manno, one of the guys has a sail that must be 15 or 20 years old and it still sets beautifully. It is cross cut and was made for one of the gun sailors.
  21. If your mk1 traveller has only four rollers it could be upgraded to a six roller one, least I think it's six. That makes a big difference. Some have replaced the traveller cleat with a Spinlock which again makes operation faster. Like all boats there's plenty to get and try.
  22. Mast base Try this. Most cut the base so it points to the shrouds. The tag on the mast end needs to be trimmed so the pointy bit sits in the hole. Mine is black because I had a can!
  23. When you take the tramp off my cat, just behind the front beam there is a patch, very tough and would probably have been made in order to effect a repair. I saw one of the gun windy sailors who had done the same except you couldn't see the repair at all. If you cut a hole in the hull bear the top you could repair your soft spot and put the patch back quite effectively.
  24. Also you have to grind the mast step when you take the mast. Just the rear and possibly a bit of the mast base.
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