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Everything posted by knobblyoldjimbo

  1. Just coated, doesn't matter what colour, at least 8 don't see anyone complaining. Don't forget the dolphin striker.
  2. There are a lot of wrinkles in the luff so I'd pull the mainsheet in hard then pull the downhaul hard too. The main isn't right up to the top which either means it's shrunk or that someone has cut it down.
  3. Comments 1. Toss the vang, the only thing it does is prevent you righting after a capsize. 2. The tack of the sail (bottom) shackles onto the boom. The downhaul then attached to the boom. You therefore pull the boom down to tension the luff of the sail. 3. The clew shackles to the slider on the boom.
  4. The long ones go on the bow, the short ones on the side. The large D shackle on the mast should have the long forestays in the middle then the shrouds on the outside. Rig the mast shackle then put the forestays on. Lift the mast so it's standing upright on the ground just in front of the mast step on the front beam. Once you have it steady lift and slot the base into the mast step. You should be able to do this in one smooth motion and just let the mast fall back with the forestays stopping it falling on the ground. Once it's like this you should be able to then attac
  5. This is from the Facebook page of Tanilba Bay SC From the commentary there'll be a bunch of different boats - Moth's, H18's F18's plus a gaggle of 14's. Apparently the reservoir is 9m deep so plenty of room for the foilers. 2018 PHILS BENEFIT SAILING DAY 18TH AUGUST 2018 A Benefit Day is being organised to raise funds to help our member Phil Johnston who is dying of brain cancer and has a loving wife and two teenage daughters. We want to support this family going through this rough journey. The venue is Grahamstown Dam Sailing Club (6 Graham
  6. Sounds par for the course! You could try Rohan of Mid North Sailes (I think) I don't know his number but others might. He's certainly doing mains for a very good price and I'd bet that he's also done the plans for a tramp since he turned up with a very well presented boat the other year.
  7. In superlight weather I pull the main in tight, then to counter the hook in the leech I pull the downhaul. When rigged do this - sheet in tight then downhaul - you'll notice the leech will fall away which in light is good but in medium means you'll not be able to point.
  8. You can do things to old sails to get some life out of them. One is to cut the bolt rope from its anchor at the bottom ( a few stitches). I did this to my Eastwind sail and the rope disappeared about a foot or so up the slot. A tight rope means the luff is crinkled and the body of the sail falls back which isn't fast. +1 on the rudder. Look up Ackerman steering. This is why the tillers are bent inwards. There's a measurement (which I don't understand!) but on cats your hulls go at different speeds and radius when turning. Stays 5.5m front and 5 rear. Remember t
  9. Oh, and thanks for asking, it's always nice to get the brain cells going.
  10. VANG PRO's Dead downwind - it prevents the leech from bowing in gusts giving small increase in speed. In my old Mk 2 I've caught foamies this way. CON's 1. If you capsize you have to take it right off in order to right. 2. if you've got it on tightish it'll prevent the mast from tacking (rotating) when you tack. Going upwind you need speed, speed and more speed. If the jib is in tight and the main is tight (remember that hard in on the mainsheet bends the mast which flattens the sail = good) then you sail for speed. It's quite remarkable when you notice the boat
  11. I just re did mine. I bought new track and put it in reverse so the round of the track sits in the groove. On mine a good part of the channel was damaged so trying to go back to the flat plate wouldn't have worked. Before I refitted the track I got some scrim tape, 38mm and 25mm and laid it along the length using epoxy as some of the rivet holes were a bit naff. Haven't sailed since but I'm expecting a more comfortable ride without the hard ridge that used to be there. For bolt rope Jimmy Buckland has some which is quite hard and tough. I didn't use it for
  12. Very sorry to hear of this David. I don't have injuries to report although I've always had dodgy knees so I'm possibly more aware of them. Although Mari's and Windy's have trapeze classes I would think that it might be better to trap on one of the larger cats, the Taipan comes to mind. Having said that I still read reports of injuries and issues on trap boats too. You could try SailingAnarchy.com as the forums sometimes have people with problems and sometimes solutions. Hope your recovery is quick. James
  13. Watch a youtube on Laser sailing. They are all over the place going downwind. One I watched, I think it was a Worlds Gold Medal race - they never gybed going downwind always twisting and turning to get the most out of waves. I think it was in Perth or Fremantle and Tom Slingsby won. Not disimilar to Maricats - change direction often and whenever you look like you're going to go down a wave into the back of another one - guaranteed sphincter clenchers!
  14. Yes, sail track is the best way, the flat plate has a habit of allowing the bolt rope to pull out unless it's well fastened down. Best with sail track is to put it on upside down - that way you don't hurt so much when you kneel on it by mistake. Use a bit of sandpaper to clear out the slot - it won't fit perfectly but it'll do. Use sikaflex as well to seal the gap. Rivets are big ones, look around in the forum and you'll find out the size - Bunnings don't sell them - I got a bag online. They have to go through to the other side of the metal plate that backs them under the
  15. I heard yesterday (absolutely terrific day sailing with about 8 maricats) that Far North Sails were doing cross cut mains for $1200.
  16. I think this is the one, hope the link works: http://4hhAf1Ti.html There's definitely a difference between the way a tri-radial sail is managed compared to a cross cut sail, however on the course not much difference. While not the Nationals, at the NSW States I won with a cross cut and Dave with equal points (subjected to countback) has a Redhead radial. I've had a Redhead too. I prefer cross cut for their simplicity, only a handful of seams compared to twenty or thirty on the radial.
  17. One of my Maris had a tramp by Baracuta. Also Redhead do one but I don't know what the price is.
  18. Tri-radial from Redhead sails (Gosford), Mid North Sails (Port Macquarie). Cross cut from Eastwind sails (Gosford), Flowers and Adams (Newcastle). Cheapo's from Rolly Tasker but make sure they understand the measurement rules as they stuffed mine up - but for the $850 it cost it was acceptable. They import to Sydney. Amazingly they stitched the sail then added the battens so there were lots of seams.
  19. I tried it once but it didn't feel right. What I did do once on my Careel 18 was chuck the standard 4:1 and replace the traveller with a bridle from side to side with a connector in the centre - sheet was tied off there then went through a spring ratchet block on the boom. Result was amazing - fast adjustment (only 2:1) and easy to manage because the mainsheet effectively started at the windward end of the bridle. Won a Nationals with it like that. Did need the vang though - mine was a 32:1 cascade. Maricat nationals coming up next week - we'll see!
  20. I think Rodney means SWAGE but I guess that depends on what it's been capsized in! Forestays on modern Mari's (that is any one from any time that's used for racing) are 5.5m at the front and 5m at the side. That top mast bit - like Rod says hand span down from the top at the front should be a s/s 'thing'. On the end of the halyard that connects to the head of the mainsail should be said swage. The swage locks into the 'thing'. The end of the wire halyard is then close to the bottom of the mast - I use a bit of thin bungee to connect it to either the mast, or the dolphin st
  21. So. Probably about $100 to ship the sails. That's all you want isn't it.
  22. Look at Dave's ad below this. Basically brand new set of sails with a boat thrown in.
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