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knobblyoldjimbo

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Everything posted by knobblyoldjimbo

  1. One of my projects this weekend was to fix my transom. I did the following: 1. After trying unsuccessfully to remove the pintle screws I ground them off to remove the pintles 2. I hit the screws a lot (as mentioned by Darcy) which eventually broke away the inside piece of alum moulding. I had rear hatches which made the whole game possible so first order would be to put these in! 3. I did a lot of pulling out and cleaning up of all the rubbish from inside. There is quite a big 'lip' all around the deck to hull joint. I elected not to remove this.
  2. I'd think: 1. two up and 160kgs is well over the top, not surprising you went over 2. when the breeze comes up we tend to pull everything in - outhaul, downhaul, luff tension - remember that it you tension the jib luff that'll try to pull the mast upright. 3. with rake on a cat rig you have 5.5m forestays and 5m shrouds when in doubt I'd stick to that 4. not seen anyone else fiddle with batten tension - I don't - just set and forget, leave the battens in and tied all the time, we're out of the cotton sail material now! 5. see note 1 I guess
  3. There is a Maricat 4.3 mast with the ribs - used for super sloop boats. I think I had one on one of my cat rigged boats - not as flexy or responsive.
  4. Just a thought, if the mast section is the same then why not convert it to Maricat - get a base and support - guessing that there may be plenty of them around.
  5. David, just do it. If you ever get to an official race then clear it with the officials then.
  6. Those add on brackets on the side stays are interesting. They appear to be rivetted to the hull. Since you wouldn't be able to get to the inside because of the storage compartment it must be a blind rivet. I would think that it's the length of the stainless strips that are distributing the load rather than the bracket but I'm not an engineer. My front castings are in a sorry old state but with the 1/4 bolts I hope they'll work. On my Careel 18 it used big U bolts upside down for the sidestays. One side of mine let go near the end of one race - didn't realise it, j
  7. I can't see anyone having an issue with that. Building a whole new boat out of carbon, well yes but not small pieces. Do it. Your first responsibility is to make the boat safe. If you make the new piece within a similar weight then I can't see anybody worrying. I don't think the class has an official measurer any more either.
  8. On Sweet 16, which was an early mk1 I observed that the bow mouldings were just three al plates. I think it's different now but it crossed my mind that they could be repeated in stainless or sheet al fairly easily.
  9. Not sure if these links will turn up as pics but they are pics of my chainplates. I'm not sure what is behind the black rubber rubbing strake but it doesn't look like there is any more 'padding'. If it were mine I'd be taking the shroud anchors off then pulling out the rubbing strip (it should stretch, if not cut it and then glue it back after - I used sikaflex for a similar job once). You mention alloy but I don't think that gets a look in here. Closest place it is, is where the sail track is fastened to hold the tramp. Definitely epoxy is the go. Do a bit of goo
  10. Waiting for Darcy . . . . . On my Mk2 there are stainless strips on top and bottom. Current advice is to use 1/4 bolts (I think, definitely one up from what was supplied). I have them on the front but not on the back (job to do). Glad you have good memories to go with it.
  11. Just use a couple of shackles instead of the pulleys.
  12. If you look at Rodney's setup. I just have a knot in the end of the yellow rope. This stops it from shooting out of the 2:1 block. When I first put them on Sweet 16 we raced at Budgewoi in fresh breeze. I went past the mark on the upwind and had a fast close haul to the mark, windward hull was flying (and I was having fun!) - the cleat released and the rudder popped up. Didn't matter and I just popped the cleat back in on the next leg. On the beach I then adjusted the cam and it didn't happen again. Without a fairlead you just have to lean back a bit further to recover the line
  13. Another tuppence worth: Google "ackerman steering formula" and it shows what Ackerman really is. I think the tiller setup on new Maricats has nothing to do with Ackerman since the tillers are straight just a marketing ploy to make you pay more than your boat cost you just for a rudder setup! One of the reasons that the old format tillers are bent is so that an Ackerman geometry setup can be achieved. Google search will eventually find the right setup for cats. Can't remember how it worked but I think you take a line from say the shrouds to line up the rudder when they're hard over.
  14. That's probably more than the boat is worth. What about a short bit of that reinforced water pipe bent around.
  15. My tuppence worth. I saw the pic on FB, looking good. You don't need to fly the hull any higher for performance (as opposed to fun!) However tight you have the stays once sailing they'll always go loose! Bend in the boat, twist etc. You need them tight enough to stop the mast jumping out of the socket, that's all. If you shackle the mainsheet top block to the halyard you can get some tension but don't bother overdoing it. I rethreaded my foot straps out of the central tab. As long as you get them quite tight I find that I'm drawn more towards the centre of the
  16. You should buy the battens with the sail. If you were really expert then you might be able to modify the battens. We can reasonably assume that the sailmaker knows which batten should be used (even if it does cost us a fortune) also your old battens may be too short (unlikely to be too long). Doesn't cost that much to ship a sail within AUS. When I sold my Rolly Tasker sail I think it cost $50 to pack up and courier from NSW Central Coast to NSW North Coast. I've had a radial and it required a different approach. Don't expect to be able to get it recut, I just don't think
  17. Give them a go. Bear in mind: 1. New sails here in Oz generally include battens. These can be expensive to ship so make sure you know what you're getting 2. Somewhere there is a PDF file with the sail measurements compying with class rules. 3. I bought a new Rolly Tasker main a few years ago. It was undersized when compared to the other new sails but otherwise was pretty good. It cost $850 with battens. I had bought their sails before for my Careel 18 and one of the genoas was made of the same material that Redhead use, ie a ripstop type material. It wa
  18. You can always dig out the old Pointed Reply Rodney.
  19. Best of luck with the sailing. Anarchy is the rule today for sail numbers! There is an official list and a sailmaker can apply for a new number which are allocated by sail, not by boat but many of us don't heed this process. If you look at the Budgewoi facebook page where there are lots of pics of the NSW States' there are a lot of differing numbers, mine is 37, Darcy uses 27 on his foam sandwich boat and so it goes on. Really as long as the boat can be identified that's all you need to worry about. Oh yes, Warren bought Darcy's sail, it was 5000, he then put a 1 at front
  20. I think the tuning guide has some indications of rake. I assumed the tramp tracks were the guide ie get them flat and measure from there. Stays are 5m and forestay 5.5m from memory. It does look like the mast is a bit upright but that will help you tack. Rake helps to keep the bow from going in in heavy wind. Depending on how much play your gooseneck fitting has you might find that it goes up and down just with mainsheet pressure. Drove one of the guys mad! I find that I have a lot of mainsheet pressure learnt with a redhead sail but I do the same with my cr
  21. Results are in. Afraid I can't paste it in here, my allowance is so small now. I guess it keeps the costs down for the owners. I've put the results onto the Budgewoi Sailing Club Facebook page as this is the only place that I can think of that is freely available. James
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