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Everything posted by knobblyoldjimbo

  1. Found it at last! http://www.sailing.org.au/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/171201-Australian-Sailing-Yardsticks-Catamarans-17_18.pdf Pity that wasn't printed out and used by everyone. My request for a recalc stands.
  2. You mention 2017/18 yardsticks Rod, can't see anything other than 2016/17 on the wonder web.
  3. Daisy - the cow! I always had trouble tacking the bloody thing! So do you have the data set for Sailwave showing the original elapsed times Rodney?
  4. Old farts, yes. It's no longer a young persons class. The youngsters knock up dad for a foiling A class these days! Last weekend one of them was in a new $35k boat. Us oldies appreciate that we can sail competitively with a budget that is lower than a significant number of other boats. I spent a massive $1500 on mine, mainly because I was getting back the Eastwind sail that I bought new a few years back. Dave, and most others have RedHead sails of various vintages, but all radial cut, Darcy had a MidNorth radial. My Eastwind is a cross cut sail but it still cracks like a rifle a
  5. I've asked for a recount. The first pictures of the results which was a screen shot of the elapsed times for Saturday showed that incorrect handicaps had been applied. When I signed in Doreen showed me the VYC 2016/17 yardsticks which show Maricat 4.3 cat rigged as 95.5 plus one for grp. That's what I put. Trouble is everyone else put 96 and 97 so I was giving the GRP's half a minute and only getting half a minute from the foamies. This means that on the couple of occasions that Dave was right behind me (there was one where he was about 30metres behind) then he'd get the w
  6. Krissy, I was talking with Rodney over the weekend. He says the sail you were having trouble with was an Eastwind sail. Rodney says that there were four blokes pulling on the halyard - I think that's your problem. With mine, I can get the sail in up to about the third batten easily - it's a matter of feeding it into the slot with one hand (usually my palm - it just needs to be guided in). From there it's a bit harder. You need to guide the bolt rope in - put a palm on either side and guide it up then take up the tension on the halyard. Rinse and repeat. I do it
  7. You can. Just make sure the curvature of the deck isn't too great. I've done two boats on the rear deck, one with the Maricat curved base and one without. The one without just needed a bit more Sikaflex to bed it down. Get a rubber glove and run your finger over the bead to smooth it down. If you put enough on it squeezes through the screw holes. One front one I did I screwed and bolted each of the holes, must have cost me about $40 in screws and bolts! Didn't need them at all, once the Sikaflex sticks there's not much that'll shift it. The BCF ones are cheap and cheerf
  8. That's an interesting one Rodney. I had the 'new' ones on Sweet 16, possibly the tillers were thicker than standard but I needed to use a lever to release them. This meant that I had to cut them back but how much is enough, effectively one extra grind of the file will move them from too tight to too loose. I opted to stump up the $60 for a pair of CL257 which have a small cam to adjust the release.
  9. Sweet 16 had the tracks reversed whereas my current cat doesn't. The reversed track is far more comfortable as Rodney points out the other way sticks up. Installing the reversed track would do well with a good sand with 80 grit along the channel. Use Sikaflex to seal the area and make sure the river centres stay in place or seal them up. Rivets need to be long ones, there are sizes to use somewhere on this site.
  10. Just thought I'd say, my tramp was losing stitches, probably because it's quite old for a 'racing' tramp. I need it for next week so the usual local people were out so I brought it to work (Newcastle). The boys at the North Sails loft next to the Newcastle Yacht club ran two sets of stitching around for $25. Oh yes, couple of weeks ago I bought some stuff to do the bolt rope with, it is solid rubber (or some other material) 7.45mm tube with a layer of woven stuff and a tab that they use for bimini's etc. It should do the trick. I know that last time I had a lot of
  11. It costs about $20 to buy two hatch covers for the rear deck. Add a bit of sickaflex and you're off. I had the same issue, the pintles had worn and the alloy in the rudder stocks had worn too. Lots of nasty play. Also some of the screws broke off when I tried to remove them. 1. I bought a ceramic hole drill. I think it was 10mm, round hole with diamond bits. It went around the 'lost' screw and all the way through the transom. 2. I acquired new(ish) pintle brackets. I bolted them through the transome and used the old pintles inside the transom. I used l
  12. You put a clam cleat on the top near the front. Then best to out a 2:1 purchase to the downhaul. Camcleat CL257 is a auto release version which pops open if you hit anything.
  13. AHA! so if you're using one of the old stripy sails and also raking the mast with 5.5m and 5. forestays and shrouds then you'll need to get a D ring sewn into the sail just above the clew - I think it needs to be about six inches. Then you'll have enough space to properly pull the sail in.
  14. just out of interest Krissy where you just heaving on the halyard? On the racing sails that I've had (cross cut and radial) what happens is that you get the sail halfway up as you describe, this is the easy bit. When the design shape of the sail starts to form it puts a bend in the mast. This means that you have to feed the bolt rope into the opening. It's relatively hard because ideally you'd have a palm on each side of the sail acting as sail feeders AND pull on the halyard. There's a sweet spot between the two but just pulling won't work. I had an Eastwind cross cut s
  15. The first third or so usually goes up ok. Once there is tension you'll need three hands. Two to hold both sides of the sails so that the bolt rope goes into the slot, the other hand is needed to pull the halyard. This is the point where you'll want an A Class because they usually just push the sail up the mast!! Like the others say, before getting the sail up look up the mast. It should be straight, if not then you will need to loosen the shrouds. To do this, attach the halyard to the mainsheet and pull it so there is tension. Then let the shroud off a hole. Rinse, re
  16. And that extra 3kgs is going to make sooo much difference!
  17. 3/4" is what you need and yes on every hole. When drilling out the old rivets remember that there is an aluminium track at the bottom that needs to be clear. This is what will provide the support for the new rivet. on one of my Maricats the track was upside down. This worked well since the round bit was 'nested' into the slot but not completely. use sikaflex to bed the upside down track because there'll be some leaking if you don't. I had a hatch on the transom deck. This allows you access to the transom which you'll need to do at some stage. when you tip the
  18. Put your pics onto Picassa or another photo sharing site. You may have noticed that this site doesn't have ads, that means that the owners pay for all the space. Most pics nowadays are quite large so there's a lot of space required. For example this pic which I took years ago was on picasa. You can copy the image location there and paste it into here. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8CuIlXWhDwhkO5uMiGPRkbdf01w1lBu5NIZjURRk6QljGRQcGXsTVhpb9fLzG_zNeku4gs4yw0xm=w293-h220-rw Now, if this doesn't show my old Careel 18 that's probably beca
  19. Clamcleat CL257 is the go for rudder blade hold downs, they release automatically when you hit something. Put a 2:1 on the downhaul for the blade, I ended up just using a couple of shackles. Definitely reformat the tiller extension. Single one in the centre - I used a length of straight ag pipe that you get from Bunnings, surprisingly light, goes over a piece of conduit which is then rivetted to the universal joint on the bar. If the mast rotates forget the vang, if you pull it on then it won't let the mast rotate or tack properly. Try to get hold of a six roller
  20. JB yes, the standard method of dealing with old sails is to have a patch with a D ring sewn about 150mm up from the clew as you describe. Older methods included lopping off the bottom part of the sail. I put my shackle through the upper D ring and also the clew D ring to keep them together. Then I bought a new sail !
  21. I'd drill holes into both and insert something like a carbon tube, or fishing rod or something. Once that's set then glass it up. Use epoxy as it's better at gripping. You'll not get anything to bond.
  22. Sweet 16 has been sold. Off to a new caretaker. Thanks to all who competed with me over the last three years. James
  23. That's a CaperCat, sheesh they scrub up well!
  24. its a turn around and walk away because it'll cost a heap to get going and will probably go like a slug Cat !
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