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knobblyoldjimbo

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Everything posted by knobblyoldjimbo

  1. An excellent regatta with some 50 boats involved. Toukley SC have a facebook page, check it out.
  2. We generally talk about redrilling the pivot hole on the rudder blades to aid balance, particularly after raking the mast back as the modern boats do. This is a pic of the one I redid this weeked. You can see where the original hole was - I bunged it up with the epoxy stuff you squeeze together to mix. The new hole is further forward (and a little higher) than the original. This allows the leading edge of the blade to come forward of the pintle centreline. Do this too far and you'll get very hard to manage lee helm where the rudders will suddenly and unexpectedly k
  3. MaricatRudderRehole
  4. Nor and entry form here: http://www.toukleysailingclub.com/ Queens Birthday Weekend 11th - 13th June 2016 Starting to look like 10+ Wicked Westerly! http://wind.willyweather.com.au/nsw/central-coast/toukley.html Edit: AND it's looking positively balmy at 20 degrees on Friday (willy doesn't go to Sat yet). No ice to scrape this year!
  5. Usually you rock up around 11am rig, chat, eat some lunch, drink some beer, sail, come back in unrig, drink beer and finish about 5:30. Races usually start around 1:30 and go till 4. That's up our way (Lake Macquarie).
  6. Appreciate that this is constantly flogged to death but I was intrigued by the results of the Speers Point Anzac Regatta. DON'T get me wrong - I'm not complaining about what I was given but I'm just wondering what the 'normal' setup is. SPASC very kindly put up the results which include the yardsticks used here: http://www.sailingspeerspoint.org.au/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/ANZAC-Day-Regatta-2016-Results.htm The only yardsticks that appear to be in use these days are the VYC ones. They seems to have several here: http://www.foxsportspulse.com/assoc_page.cgi?c=1-100
  7. Worked great today at Spears Point. Went too close to the rocks, hoping for a lift - when the leeward rudder popped up I knew it was time to tack!
  8. Look for Darcy's phone number, he's forgotten more than any one of us have learned. He knows where to get stuff, new, old etc etc. Good luck, see you at Manno next season, or Budgewoi each Saturday in May, both great venues. There's also the Brass Monkey regatta at Toukley in mid June I think. KO
  9. Just a note, I got a couple of these from Jimmy Buckland, Arizona Plastics on Arizona Road Woongarrah (Central Coast NSW). $30.80 each and I picked them up and now have them in my grubby fingers! A lot more than the first pair I bought on ebay a few years ago but that place seems to have become much more exy these days. So - it looks like you just have to contact your local chandler. Jimmy took about 5 days to get hold of them (and by the way he had delivered a few more so has them in stock). If you go, have a look at his Farrier 22 (I think) - primrose coloured -
  10. $30 each, not bad since ebay sellers now seem to have pumped up the price. When I bought them it was back when the exchange rate was pretty much the same as now.
  11. Clamclet CL257 is an auto release cleat that would do this. I bought a pair for about $35 from the UK. I think they cost a bit more these days but they're adjustable and under a certain load they pop up and release the rope.
  12. Felton Marine who ever they are. Wipe on, wait till it glazes then rub off.
  13. Two people, steady pressure and it pulls out. Going back in you can use washing up liquid as a lubricant as it dissolves, anything else and it'll be constantly slippery. Re tie the back as tight as you can. I've used a crowbar I'm the past. Tighter it is the firmer the whole platform.
  14. Whatever, something like this - https://www.element119.com/marine.html mine came from Bias and is in an aluminium canister, it is quite thin and you just wipe it on then rub off. I found it's a little like PolyGlow in the low amount of effort you need to do the job. I'll look at the bottle at the weekend, must be from someone else.
  15. First clean up using something like 30 Seconds then wipe with Marine Penetrol. If that comes up nice then give it a wipe with Ronstan Gel Coat Protector.
  16. Very surprised to hear that a major sailmaker let's their product go without full payment!
  17. http://www.swingcat.co.uk/how/bridgedeck/ackermann_steering.pdf Something I need to check too now that I've removed the slop in the pintles. With the Mari, first thing to check is the line of the rudders. On the trailer pull the rudder blade half down and then look along its line to the bow. Once they're in line tape the tiller down so it won't move. Then make sure the other rudder is also in line. That's the first thing - made a big difference to my boat when I did this. Then the ackerman. So, if you remove the pop rivets holding the tillers in plac
  18. Stupid phone autocorrect - Delrin is what I used. 300mm x 10mm was $12. The pintle bracket is now bolted on with the old, worn bracket on the inside of the hull.
  19. This is what I did for the lower part. The ss bearing had long gone. I drilled the hole to 10mm and tapped in the bit of debris. All good now.
  20. A newer racing main will work fine on an 'old' setup. We tend to use longer forestays now in order to rake the mast further back. This aids pointing upwind and helps reduce 'going down the mine' downwind. Forestays are 5.5m and shrouds are 5m (but check first with Darcy or Mick). The main on an old setup will just mean the boom is a bit higher in the air, that's all. Mast and boom are the same. If your boat is old, do check / replace the dolphin stricker. If they break you can lose the beams.
  21. I'm after a well used rudder stock if anyone has one. It needs to have the steel inserts either so loose they can be removed easily or absent completely. I have a lot of play in the pintles which I can't remove (stuck fast!). Thanks James Update: I fixerated it. The problem was that there was a LOT of play in the rudders - no good for racing. The bottom bracket had worn out, the s/s bracket and the rudder casting which had lost its s/s insert. This one I drilled out with an 8mm drill and put in a bolt of the same size. The top one,
  22. I think Tanilba sail Sunday. They have a facebook page (actually two!) but it doesn't say. A boat chandlery or rigger can do wire for dolphin strikers. Also check the forestays and shrouds they may be in poor condition. Dolphin length depends on what size turnbuckle you have so best to take the whole thing in. My last one cost me $30 a couple of years ago. My shrouds were $80.
  23. Make sure your mainsheet is easy to handle and flows in and out easily. DON'T trust in your mainsheet cleat, make sure that it is simple to pull it out of the cleat to release the main. When you have the traveller down for reaching etc it changes the angle so it becomes harder to release the cleat. Most rigs are now raked back quite a lot. I think forestays 5.5m and stays 5m is the measurement. This helps reduce the incidence of "going down the mine".
  24. Awesom, just after 1066 which was the Battle of Hastings and a few decades before Australia was occupied! So that would make my #16 pretty damn old.
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