fangman Posted June 26, 2008 Report Share Posted June 26, 2008 pulled the cat apart for winter check,front beams in good nick, however rear beam has cracked and slogged bolt holes.I have acquired a cobra mast section,problem is I do not know what exact positon for the holes eg[ distance between bolt holes on one hull to the bolt holes other hull] and is this all I need to get proper hull alignment.Can anyone help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
korwich Posted July 1, 2008 Report Share Posted July 1, 2008 Fangman I would expect that if you set both hulls paralell and square, (using the front beam to get your width), you could then just mark the hole positions using the holes in the hulls as a template. Every boat is liable to be slightly different in width I would think espcially the mark 1s. This way you know that your hulls are parallel at least. To get a measurement for parallel I would measure off the centre of the eye for the shroud on the bow/(pointy end) and use the centre of the rudder pintle on the stern/(flat end) (land lubber terms in case mick reads this also) someone may correct me on this though. Phil [This message has been edited by korwich (edited 01 July 2008).] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fangman Posted July 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2008 thanks korwich for the info,another question though,Is it best to bolt front beam and tension dolphin striker and parallel hulls then use rear beam recesses as template cheers fangman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
korwich Posted July 1, 2008 Report Share Posted July 1, 2008 Tension dolfin as per rigging tips in maricat website, if I remember right with no tension measure the amount of rise then tension so as that measurement is increased 10mm. The force of the mast then should push that back to the original measurement. I'd check that info myself before doing it though. Therefore I suppose that it would make sense to parallel before tensioning the dolfin strkr as it is pushed back to original by the mast. Hope this makes sense. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fangman Posted July 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2008 thanks again kowich,I'll give it a try,by the way ,what's the filler material they use between the hull and beams? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
korwich Posted July 4, 2008 Report Share Posted July 4, 2008 Not sure what the original was, I used fibreglass car dent filler ie plastibond. Had everything ready and lined up spread the goop in there and tightened up the bolts. On my front beam I had one of the nuts strip on me, so I drilled it out so the bolt fitted through it and put in a longer bolt with a washer and nut with access thru the hatch. Worked well but I still needed to seal up with sealant to stop the water from getting in, even more so as I had a hole going into my bouyancy tank now. The goop sure helps to stiffen it all up, along with tight bolts and a tight tramp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loose Change Posted July 4, 2008 Report Share Posted July 4, 2008 G'day Fangman when I had my 4.8 Mari apart I gooped it up with Sikaflex under the beams, which unlike Plastibond doesn't require a hardner and therefore you can take your time with the job. Available at Bummings in either white or black. Harry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Dowling Posted July 4, 2008 Report Share Posted July 4, 2008 G'day Just happenned to be passing by and noticed the recommendation to use Sikaflex. I use it a fair bit and it's a great product but I don't think it's the best thing to use for bedding beams. There are a number of different grades, but most are very strong adhesives which have some flexibility. So once you use it in the beam seat it will be very hard to ever get the beam off again. Also the inherint flexibility means a bit of give in the hull to beam joint. Probably not what you need for a stiff boat. I would recommend bogging in with the car stuff or a microballoon or Q cell mix with polyester or vinylester resin. Apply Gladwrap smoothly to the beams then tighten them down to squeeze out the excess before the bog goes off. When it dries take the beams off, remove the Gladwrap and you should have a nice matched beam pad. This will still give you at stiff boat but allow you to easily remove the beams if you need to. A small amount of silicon around the bolt holes will stop and leaks too if you are through bolting or some petroleum jelly if bolting to a threaded insert in the beam pad. Hope this helps. John Dowling A Class Stingray Arrow Seawind 24 MG 14 When too many boats is never enough Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fangman Posted July 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2008 thank you all for the info cheers steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rimo3536 Posted July 10, 2008 Report Share Posted July 10, 2008 Hi Guys, I agree with John about sikaflex . I used it to bed in beams and I am having all sorts of trying to get my hulls apart again. Johns advice makes good sense to me. I will never use it again. Meanwhile I will keep pecking away trying to get them apart. Any suggestions welcome Rob Rimington MPYC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knobblyoldjimbo Posted July 13, 2008 Report Share Posted July 13, 2008 I just got rid of some black sika with Moovit - glue remover. It was just a small bit but it worked quite well and faily quick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knobblyoldjimbo Posted July 13, 2008 Report Share Posted July 13, 2008 sorry, it's called Ooomph - changed my inspection hatches today - it got rid of the residue, the stuff I couldn't scratch off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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