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Trampoline wanted


keithmnz

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The mark 2 tramps should be slightly longer allowing for the rear beam to be on an angle, mark 1 should fit a Mark 2 with a bigger gap at the end, mark 2 will not fit mark 1 as it will not pull tight (too long)

Better to get away from the 2 piece tramp too hard to get tight, (tightness helps with rigidity of the whole boat).

Phil

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  • 4 weeks later...

Darcy's tramps are the beez neez. Looks good, and if I could only see how people have rigged them up, I'd be thrilled to bits (my old tramp was tensioned via the centre webbing, whereas the new one does away with such frippery).

Any photos of nicely rigged tramps?

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You slide the front onto the front beam then you wriggle the side pieces along towards the back. Once there the tramp will have loops to put a piece of electical conduit through (I guess just like the double tramp). With a piece of line (about twice the width of teh tramp) I start at the centre then thread it through on each side using a pattern that makes the line pull straight back onto the saddles under the rear beam. Once in place you tighten it up, and I mean you tighten it up - get it so the conduit is groaning under the pressure - I use a crowbar to get the final tension. The tramp is then like a drum and the whole boat is stiffer for it.

If you've replaced the side bars with caravan track you may have trouble finding something to go into the tramp 'pockets'. I found the original lines made it too thick so I (eventually) found some air hose from Clarkes Rubber and I managed to get some 2mm Marlow line into the hole to stop it compressing too much. It's now worked for about a season without any trouble.

KO

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Thanks knobblyoldjimbo for the tip: my old tramp is much the same, but I'm curious about where to tie off the hiking strap loops, and to determine what to do about the trapeze shockcord which went through the old tramp (two eyelets) and around the striker.

Then what to do with the previously tied mainsheet/traveller sheets, which used to run through a plastic shockcord-attached ring near the front of the tramp. I realise that the flap at the back is meant to keep the sheets from washing off, but not entirely sure how it works in practice.

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Ivanov I got a trampoline through Darcy a couple of weeks ago for $250 it's great. I am trying to attach photos of how I set up the hiking straps and the tension rope but am not having much luck with this user unfriendly system.

If you supply an email address I can send them to you that way

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Thanks Clint: my address is [removed]. Looking forward to the photos.

I had a hell of a time getting Darcy's new tramp on, as I discovered that *one* track is different to the other (looks like the dreaded caravan annex track: never thought that both sides were different, as I've taken the old tramp off (and back on) at least four times to make repairs. In the end I cannibalised the old tramp and used the old lines, stitched in so as to not slip and buckle, but it was still very tight.

All I need now is to work out the hiking straps and the traveller sheet/mainsheet routing. I've made holes for eyelets and the trapeze rigging, so have that much sorted, and the conduit cable is sprung to about F sharp.

[This message has been edited by ivanov (edited 02 March 2010).]

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  • 2 weeks later...

Clint

I am about to replace my tramp on a 4.3 Mk1 and would like to see the pics of how yours is set up as well.

I am a bit woried as my port tramp track has had fiberglass repairs (by me) and is a extreamly tight fit with the current old original tramp.

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