Standedy Posted December 4, 2011 Report Share Posted December 4, 2011 Hi all, I bought a Cobra (in pieces) a number of years ago and am finally getting around to repair and putting back together. The sail number is 320. The only cat I've sailed was a Hobie 16. The Cobra has a lot of cleats and pulleys for which I am struggling to work out a purpose. I guess I have a few questions that I should start with: How are the centreboards controlled and held up? Where are the righting ropes attached? The jib sheet is continuous how is it attached to the clew? There are 2 sets of cleats on the front beam what are they for? One set have a hole through into the beam and the line exits through the back of the beam, in line with the hulls. I've worked out how 1 set of trapeze wires are retained (shock cord doubled through the front beam) where are the others captive? I want to get a new tramp made, the existing one slots into the back of the front beam and sail tracks on the edges of the hull, it was then passed under the back beam and is held there with a strip of aluminium riveted to the beam along it's length. I'd prefer to have a separate piece of mesh slot into the track on the back beam and lace the 2 together, how do others do it? Photos of any of the answers would be of a lot of assistance. There are other questions too, but they can wait, I'm sure that's enough for now. Regards Steve Lakes Entrance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darcy1945 Posted December 4, 2011 Report Share Posted December 4, 2011 Steve, You need a cat sailor, (Preferably Cobra or other high perf S/Sloop), from your area to have a look at your boat, Cobras have been around for a long time and rigging methods have evolved so that what you have and where it is placed may no longer be the best or simplest. The 2 sets of cleats on the front beam will probably be for mast rotation and cunningham, the traps are usually located by eyelets in the tramp, with the bungee crossing under the tramp and sister clips. Righting rope can be as simple as a 3-4m length of line attached to a saddle in the middle of the front beam, stowed in the tramp pocket, and thrown over the top hull when required, (gives more righting moment for lightweights), or, cord, with s/s rings attached to the outboard end, runs through pulley on front beam inside hull, knot on inboard end adjusts length, secure to bungee which runs through pulleys, rear beam, front beam, rear beam and attach to other side cord. (attach to your trap hook to the rings when required). Tramps are diagonal cut, bolt ropes front and sides, a pocket at the rear with 20mm electrical conduit though it from side to side and cut outs to allow cord to secure it to saddles on the rear beam (you could probably slide saddles into the track on your rear beam), Our local motor trimmer builds good tramps $250/$300. Good luck with the project, if you don't get local or specialist Cobra help, you are welcome to ph 0243591729 till 9pm any time. Darcy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Standedy Posted December 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2011 Thanks Darcy, I'll hunt around Metung Yacht Club on the weekend for anyone who may be able to help. But certainly what you have said makes some sense, I'll just have to digest and picture (on the boat)what you've explained. The tramp set up sounds pretty straight forward, I'll hunt out a local trimmer and see what they can do for me. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arjay Posted December 6, 2011 Report Share Posted December 6, 2011 Steve, The cleats on the beam are barber haulers for opening the jib slot whilst tacking down wind. The continuous jib sheet will start at the jib slide, go through a block attached to the jib, back to the slide block and across the other side - and ditto the other side. The second trap wire can also go through the front beam - but through a dead eye near the side stay first. If you are in Melb at all, or can call in to Parkdale Yacht Club on a Sunday, we can give the good oil on rigging Cobra's for racing:) regards, Rick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darcy1945 Posted December 6, 2011 Report Share Posted December 6, 2011 Rick, get a few photos or diagrams on for Steve or point him to any info that may exist in asscn archives. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Standedy Posted December 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2011 Rick, I'm starting to get my head around all the cleats, blocks etc, I would really like to get down to Parkdale to check out what the experts are doing. I've spoken to a cat sailor (mozzie) up this way and that was a help. The only thing is the centreboard control, I've attached a photo of what I presume is used to control them, it's a continuous line with 2 little cleats on. I don't know where they were screw to previously. [ATTACH=CONFIG]511[/ATTACH] This other is a pic of the two cleats on the front beam, the one fwd enters up from inside and the line goes around a pulley inside the other end of the beam the exits out a hole in the sail track, as seen in the other pic. Steve [ATTACH=CONFIG]512[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]513[/ATTACH] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rooboy Posted March 18, 2012 Report Share Posted March 18, 2012 Hi Darcy You said Tramps are diagonal cut, bolt ropes front and sides, a pocket at the rear with 20mm electrical conduit though it from side to side and cut outs to allow cord to secure it to saddles on the rear beam (you could probably slide saddles into the track on your rear beam), I have a cobra that im rebuilding, and it has the the bolt rope on the back beam and the conduit on the front beam. Is that ok or should i swing it around? Cheers Lyndon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darcy1945 Posted March 18, 2012 Report Share Posted March 18, 2012 No, securing at the front just looks a little messier (no flap to cover the lashing) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rooboy Posted March 18, 2012 Report Share Posted March 18, 2012 ok thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arjay Posted March 19, 2012 Report Share Posted March 19, 2012 I have the conduit at the front and bolt rope in the rear beam. I use an aluminium tube in lieu of conduit - you can pull up tighter. If you have the conduit/tube at the rear - more chance of losing the mainsheet through the rear beam tramp connection - and a real pain to recover in twenty knots:) Regards, Rick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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