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What’s the best way to handle an approaching gust?


NACRAJON

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Bit of a novice question, but I got dumped into the freezing waters of Lake Burley Griffin (10 deg C?) twice today during the winter series and its happening a bit too regularly. Keen to find out what I’m doing wrong on a sloop rig, single handed.

1. A large front came over during the race with easily seen gusts travelling across the lake. I was beating, with about 25m to the gust hitting I would bear up almost pinching and sheet in. Once in the gust bear off and try and keep the windward hull just skimming the water.

2. When running at 90 degrees apparent, I usually have the traveller halfway out to the inner hull and reasonable tension on the mainsheet (cleated). I was out on the wire about level with the rear beam and can only just operate the jib. The jib seems to be the key to building up speed, keeping the jib uncleated and continually playing with it to keep the tell tales right with the occasional movement of the mainsheet. When the gusts came I was moving back to the stern but I was repeatedly burying the lee bow, ended up pitch poling in a big gust. The easiest way to dump power seems to be with the jib but being right at the back of the boat I can’t gain access to it.

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What type of boat is it? Normally a sloop rig would be reserved for 2 people and a cat rig (no Jib) for 1 person. You would have to be an octopus to work both I would think.

In gusty conditions I don't like cleating anything either as it stops you having quick responses to the power difference.

In saying that your most likely over powered for your weight and not have the hands to control everything.

[This message has been edited by Steelnerve (edited 17 August 2009).]

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Leeward bow being driven under can be caused by 1, weight to far forward 2, not enough mast rake, (stronger wind more rake) 3, not easing the jib, on a hard reach jib sheet controls bow height 4, boards to far down, on a hard run, any amount of board down will drive bows down 5, the best use of gusts in most conditions is to free up and sail for speed, sail low in the gusts, high in the lulls 6, ask advice from other 4.8 owners.

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I agree with Darcy bar point 6 if its in relation to working upwind.

Personally i'll drive higher in a gust and lower in a lull. This is due to the fact that in a gust you are travelling faster and your foils (rudders/centreboards) are creating more lift hence you use the extra lift to drive higher to the wind.

Downwind you drive lower in a gust and higher in a lull (drive to the apparent of the boat).

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I would say that Phil has the idea on the reach, you have to be able to play the main to keep the cat under control and in the gusts bear off, go down until you have control then you can start to come up.

Uphill as TS says, a gust increases speed but then your apparent goes forward so it may be faster to bear away a touch to increase speed however if you're on your ear then bear up to spill. Also traveller will provide fastest easing so ease till you have control, hike like a bugger and then trim for speed.

LBG (Lake Bloody Gusty) isn't the best place for this!!

Also as a gust approaches it pushes the air so you may get a knock, start to adjust then the real air comes in. Try to sail through the initial knock.

(boring at work!!)

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Cheers, thanks for the input. I have a few things to try out.

I also rebuilt my triple block last night, I have a Harken Carbomatic which has never been right since I bought it 6 months ago and an old Ronstan seized ratchet block. Now have a hybrid Carbomatic with Rostan cleat and spaced out bail. It’s now running rope out smoothly under no load and releasing well under load. I’m hoping it was half my problem.

Jon

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Mainsheet size is important, I find 6mm on 14s, up to 8mm on anything bigger. 10-12mm rope with6-8 purchase can have enough friction through the blocks to put you in, your other major problem is that in fresh water your boat is much less bouyant and will pitchpole at lower speed/pressure. (you need to get to the coast more often and enjoy some good rides)

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That Darcy fella is Army - he likes a bit of PAIN - brought on by 6mm mainsheets!!!

There's some stuff they call Dinghy Line it's sold as 8mm but it's a little thinner, around 7mm and will go through those small Harken triple blocks. For bigger winds I use standard 8mm but have a pair of blocks that would grace a fifty foot yacht!

I also have trouble with the top block turning too far causing twisting in the line, I'm going to experiment with locking it in (which you can do with the Harken blocks).

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Jimbo,

Pain with 6mm? It doesn't hurt. I've been using it since i bought my current Windrush (i ordered my 40mm block ex. USA before anyone out here in the 14ft's were using them). Best thing i've done to it, except for maybe my current mod...

The 40mm Harken Carbo triple ratchet block can't handle anything bigger than 6mm (the ratchet pulley wont grip it properly). The 40mm Harken Carbo triple top block can handle up to 8mm.

Michael

Windrush S/S 6327

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Michael, your right, I pulled my blocks apart, its very obvious that the 8mm line hasn't locked into the ratchet. I will buy some 6mm line tomorrow - and start wearing gloves.

I did have 8mm before with the outer sheath removed and tapered off inside the blocks and it ran very smooth but it kept getting fouled inside the blocks if there was a lot slack in light winds. If I get time I might try 6mm with a spliced taper to 4mm dyneema (once past the ratchet).

I haven’t found anywhere cheap to buy 10m of fancy dinghy mainsheet. I once saw a brand in 7mm, but it was $25 a metre.

Jon

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I buy my line from Kevlar at Nelson Bay Lasers Sales/Hobie Sports they are in West Gosford. Its the same stuff they sell to the Laser guys and its designed so that it never twists. Its not cheap but its by far better than the $1.10/m stuff. Less stretch, lasts longer and has a breaking strain in the 1.5tonne to 2tonne mark...

Other thing to find is someone that stocks Lyros rope (Whitworths) or FSE Roboline, both are not the cheapest but by far the best quality around.

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