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Rudders are a PITA to go down.


slammin

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I'm having hassles gettingthe rudders to drop down. They have always been finnicky but seem worse lately.

 

I have checked the centre bolt tension and they move very freely. I have also loosened the uphaul ropes off and pulled it down through the tube so it is completely slack, as you cann see they don't even have that friction.

 

I sail a lot off beaches, not big surf but definitely wind swell so I can't screw around trying to get them down. Lately all I can do is stall the boat and wriggle the rudder to try and get them to drop.

I must be missing somethig here, or is their some elastic thingamejigger?

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  • 3 weeks later...

Check the roller and the wheel in the upper casting. The rudder is designed to go down by putting light downward pressure on the tiller arm. The roller runs over the top of the rudder blade pushing it down, the spring inside the arm keeps pressure on the roller to keep the blade down but let the blade come up if it hits something solid. This stops damage to the rudder pintles on the rear of the hull or your blade.

 

I found the 3/16 pin inside the roller bends in time which jams the roller and elogates the hole in the roller. To fix this I replace the 3/16 pin with a 1/4 pin by drilling out the hole and the rudders work a treat.

 

The other problem is the roller in the tiller arm. The wire acts much like a file and files down the inside of the wheel. If the wheel jams the wire makes a flat spot on the wheel and makes the problem worse.

 

Also check the pins which join the 2 castings. Wear in this area is the primary reason the tiller arms drop and hit the back of the hulls near the back beam.

 

Paul

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Yes Paul is spot on, the roller pins sometimes bend, the top roller in the end of the arm could be the main problem if its not turning or worn badly.

Be extremely careful when pulling the rudders apart, the spring inside the arm is strong. Leave the rudder on the boat, take the boat off the trailer, take the small bolt out holding the rubber joint in the tube then pull hard on the rubber joint and cross bar to expose the spring. slide a metal ruler in the spring, I also clamp the spring with vice grips/ lock grips. If someone can help you it's easier. Be careful removing the rubber swivel boot from the spring, Tie some cord around the spring and take the weight removing the metal ruler & lock grips. Lower the spring down into the tube and dissemble. Assemble back the same way, its the only way to replace the spring & cable & roller in the end of the arm.

Cheers

Quin       

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 I have trouble every time , but that's because I have got a new set of rudder blades , the new blades are lighter & don't have as much lead in the bottom of them to get them to go down. when I asked Brett at WW about it he just said to use the tiller extension to Push the rudder blades down . Have been doing that ever since & it gets them down fine. I never lift one rudder during a race though , as its too hard to get them down when going at speed. 

  Anyway worth a try.  As long as you don't have too flexible tiller ext . (ie doesn't work well with a bit of PVC conduit ) , but if you have an aluminium or Carbon Extension its fine.

  Good luck.

  Roger

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