dwl Posted August 8, 2004 Report Share Posted August 8, 2004 I have a NACRA 5.8 (#1602) and need to get the trampoline re-stitched at a local sail maker...(wear and tear) My question revolves around how to get the tramp off? After undoing the tramp tensioning ropes at rear, I undid the bolts on the port hull, because it looks like you have to push the hulls inward a touch(3 or 4mm) to loosen the cross tension on tramp, so you can slide the tramp forward. Then remove hull and slide tramp off. My problem is I loosened the hull straps and took centre bolt out on port side of front beam, but i cant even move the hull 1 millimetre. (I cant lift the beam up off the hull or slide either way) Is the cross beam glued to the hull or am i missing something obvious? I've heard that when i do get it off...that i should drill two quarter inch holes side by side in the front beam track about 3 inches from hull so i dont have to take hull off in future? Anyone done this? Any advice appreciated... Doug Lucock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwl Posted August 8, 2004 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2004 OK...progress...got hull and tramp off..lots of force required...Let me re-phrase the questions:- 1) Should I drill the holes in cross beacm track to lesson the ordeal in future. 2) Do you grease the bolts when putting back in hulls/straps 3) What is correct method and place to retension the tramp cross ways and to measure and re-align hulls? (Also Parallel or Toe In?) Doug Lucock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NACRA Posted August 8, 2004 Report Share Posted August 8, 2004 Steps for removeing tramp 1 Undo rope at back of tramp 2 undo front beem bolts all the way 3 to remove beem you will need to push bows out slightly and pop front been out. 4 once beem is out slide tramp out of hull tracks and out of beem 5 regreese the bolts with any antiseize greese 6 In My apinion do not drill any holes in the beem it mat weeken it i have seen beem break in many places. 7 you should have at least 15mm tow out at the bow but dont get to conserned about tow in and out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
REV YUKKA II Posted August 9, 2004 Report Share Posted August 9, 2004 doug don't drill holes in beem. the tramp is actualy tappered from front to the back so it tighten's up across the middle when you pull the tramp tight in the last inch at the back. i also spray the side rails with sail lub the silicon one from ronsten (also very good for getting sails up mast). lining up hulls is easy as they have lugs on front and back beems so they can only go in one spot. we have trouble with red back spreading the hulls in the rear but the other two older ones never move. looking forward to seeing you on the water again doug REV YUKKA II Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JED Posted August 12, 2004 Report Share Posted August 12, 2004 Mate, I have done this a million times by myself and I have even removed a hull or two single handed. What you nedd is someone to get horizontal between the bows with their feet on one hull and hands extended on the other. Push like all hell and lift the beam out of the hull as they induce spread. This will cause the hull to rest inward once you have the beam out. The rest is easy. When you put it back on You don't need to drill holes as such, just machine and file a neat journal on the front tramp track right below the mast about two inches wide with a dremel. When you try to get the tramp back on, get two blokes to spread the hulls and get the bolts done up while the silicone is still wet. You can use an accrow prop if your mates have pissed off to the pub. Good Luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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