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14 ft somthingarother


davidald

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Hey all, I have not sailed cats for 20 years but a friend asked me if I would take one off his hands. I am new to these forums so i want to ask 'if i post a pic of this thing, any chance someone could identify it for me and give me some tips ref reparing it'?

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hi David,

I wish my family would let me do "projects" on the deck.

Paper Tiger, an excellent boat, and a well supported class.

enjoy!!!

pete biggrin.gif

PS.

some sailing clubs.

Brighton/Seacliffe

Christies Beach

the big one, Holdfast,at Glenelg.

pete.

[This message has been edited by xmatelot (edited 19 March 2007).]

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There is a timber paper tiger that has sat decaying for years in front of a house just down from the Caltex Hub service station. I thought before you posted photos that it was the one that you were talking about, but from the look of the pictures, the one that you have is fibreglass. There were quite a few FRP PT’s made by a guy called Jan Lindsar a while back. He made a lot of very heavy ones to be used as “off the beach hire cats” and as such they were never competitive as a racing cat. He also tried to sell some to the Paper Tiger racer/sailers by making a few very light by using a variety of lay ups, some successful and others not so good. From the look of your photo it looks very much as if your PT hulls came out of his moulds?

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Hi David, there are plenty of Paper Tigers around in SA, and lots of parts available. I am the SA measurer, and should be able to hook you up with the information you need. Give me a call on 0422 290 725 if you get stuck.

Enjoy your project.

P.S. Clubs in Adelaide with Paper Tigers are Somerton, Adelaide S.C, and Port River.

xmatelot's info is a bit out of date there.

I'm sure you will get a great benefit if you take a look at a few other boats to see how they are put together.

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G'day David,

As Darryl suggests, it does look like it is from Jan's mould. I believe the moulds are now with another builder.

Hulls from this mould have actually done well, including National Championship winners in 1998 (Drew Helmore, Vic) and 2001 (Neal Schneider, NSW).

They should clean up OK. Car polish is one way to get solid grime off them. Some people will bag the idea of polishing hulls, but it's really personal preference (Neal Schneider, mentioned above, is a fan of polish). It will be interesting to see what they weigh. The bare platform (hulls, beams, tramp) has a minimum weight of 50kg. I think the individual hulls need to be around 17kg each to achieve that minimum weight when assembled.

With the tramp attachment arrangement you have (tying points along the inner gunwale) you need to ensure they are firmly attached (solid, non-corroding screws), as this is a potential failure area (the eyelets can pull out). Most modern boats use aluminium annexe track along each side and the rear, but as this would require a new trampoline, I wouldn't worry about it yet.

Keep us posted on how it is going.

Regards,

Dave Stumbles

Secretary

Paper Tiger Catamaran International Association.

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Thanx Dave. The first thing I plan on doing is sanding of the old paint to see whats hapnn underneath. There are some sizeable dents in the hulls. I have been told to grind/sand off the gelcoat to pull the dents. I guess I will do things in stages and post links for pics as I go. Also, the trampoline is missing so I may as well upgrade to the track idea.

The photo shows a section of badly dented hull. I have started sanding and you can see the paint, old paint, gelcoat and glass.

http://www.adam.com.au/davidald/cat%20repairs%201%20011.jpg

[This message has been edited by davidald (edited 20 March 2007).]

[This message has been edited by davidald (edited 20 March 2007).]

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See my reply in the Paper Tiger forum.

Re the tramp, have a look at some other PTs and see how it is done. Order a tramp from someone who has made PT tramps before, if possible. However, you need to give them accurate measurements of the gaps between the hulls at regular intervals to ensure they have a good idea of the size required, as all boats have a slight variation. A tight tramp with no slop is worth the effort of accurate measurements.

Regards,

Dave.

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Heres some inspiration for you Dave! I have been doing 2001 up, and its very close to the paint stage now. Remember there IS light at the end of the tunnel!

normal_ptwip.jpg

[This message has been edited by shoom (edited 22 March 2007).]

[This message has been edited by shoom (edited 22 March 2007).]

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David: That's a major impact. It would take a very good repair job to retain the integrity of the hull I would think. Certainly out of my league. Others may have some advice.

Tom: The timber hulls are looking good. Keep up the good work.

Dave.

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might be out of my league to. I guess I will have to find a new hull. Shoom I cant get your photo link to work. Ok I can see it now. Very nice. Dave I think i could reinforce the inside with two rigid struts, then fibreglass the outside to form a base, then bog, then gelcoat.

[This message has been edited by davidald (edited 22 March 2007).]

[This message has been edited by davidald (edited 22 March 2007).]

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Thanks for the compliments guys! This project has blown way over my initial time projections after fixing a ding in the bow transmogrified into a total rebuild. though there are faster cats out there , this is the boat I will always keep as they really handle so superbly , plus timber soul wink.gif keep persevering with the PT thing Dave, you'll be pleased you did!

bear in mind that with gelcoat you would have to invest quite some time after spraying sanding the job back to a fair surface. I would suggest maybe giving the hull a good keyup all over and bogging up all the holes liberally and then take some time with a longboard to get it nice and fair. Shoot it with a couple of coats of a thick highbuild primer using a 2 mm tip on the gun... longboard again starting with 240 grit, working thru 3 or 4 different grades until you reach 800 (it should be real smooth to the touch now and no visible scratches to the eye, and remember this highbuild sands off like talcum powder) and then go a topcoat with a 1.4 mm tip.. if you get it on nice and thick you should need no more finishing afterwards than a buff with a lambswool pad and some 2-pac polishing compound. by the way JOTUN do a really good 2-pac , its as tough as nails as we had a T drift onto a groin when the owner went to get the beach wheels (crew wasnt holding on properly) the resultant scratches were able to be buffed straight out!

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Highly recommend Jotun for all paint including high-build. We've been using it on big boats for years. You will (if you maintain it) get upwards of 10 to 15 years or more out of the top coats.

Once top coated (twice at least for depth of colour), make the last coat a half/half colour & clear then hit it with a couple of coats of U.V. Stabilised clear.

It will give you a depth that you can fall into and shave in.

Wash with P.H. neutral detergents regularly, rinse clean and keep the polish up to it and it will last as long as you!

Sorry 'bout the water bit with all the restrictions on, but ya' gotta get the salt offf somehow!!!

Good Luck,

Leroy wink.gif

[This message has been edited by Leapin Leroy (edited 23 March 2007).]

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  • 4 weeks later...

Please note that most big boats don't go for the couple of clear overcoats because of the cost (think 20 times the material needed compared to a 14 footer), unfortunately it's a bit of false economy on the owners part. On a small surface area like yours it's definitely the way to go.

Also used in the auto industry on customs and high end because the finish enables you to polish out most minor scratches rather than repaint.

Good LUck and keep the faith, you can finish it!! wink.gif

Regards,

Leigh

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