ashm86 Posted June 2, 2007 Report Share Posted June 2, 2007 Wish me luck. I got West epoxy resin and hardener along with a canister of the filler. I also picked up the pump kits for the resin and hardener. I also got myself a syringe kit to inject into the areas where the plywood has lifted/rotted. I have cut my sections of 1x2 pine to use as stringers on either side of the inspection port. I have sanded the hulls and decks smooth with 100 then 150 grit papers using a power sander (much to my neighbour's chagrin). I am going to wash the hulls down first thing tomorrow morning and scrub them with a deck brush. After that, I will do the injection and filling on the deck. While that sets up, I am goign to move to the other hull that has no "issues" and fair in the low spots. I will be doing this with a metal putty knife. How soon can I sand these spots again? Do I need to go back to 100 grit? Or can I go straight to the 220? I was unable to get a long-board, so I have a half sheet sanding pad. I have done drywall in the past, along with plaster and lathe work and enjoy that stuff and am pretty good at it so I am hoping it will apply here as well. Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattaipan Posted June 2, 2007 Report Share Posted June 2, 2007 Hi Andrew You can make a long board yourself. Its just a piece of timber 90mm wide, 8-10mm thick and to what length you want, timber blocks as handles 100-120mm from the end. I made mine from 3 or 4mm ply, cut into 90mm wide strips, 1 metre long, and glued 3mm pieces together. Depending on the timber it can bow or warp, thats why I was the ply, it seems to stay flat and straight. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashm86 Posted June 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2007 How do you fasten the paper to the board? Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h20melon Posted June 2, 2007 Report Share Posted June 2, 2007 1/2 sheet sanding pad is ok, I'm currently using one. How soon after can you sand you ask - it's about 8 hours - depending on weather. If you try sanding too soon, you will notice that it wont sand properly - it doesn't sand smooth and begins rolling the dust that comes off, and leaves the surface not smooth. 220 grit should be fine - if you find that it's taking too long, then you can go down to 180 or 120/100. I'm currently working on a PT that I've undercoated and filled all the low spots, but unfortunately, I've left it for about 2-3 weeks since doing this, so the paint and epoxy has harden quite nicely, and it's hard to sand so I've been using 120 grade wet on 1/2 sheet pad. as you have the 1/2 sheet pad, I wouldn't worry about a long board. Neil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h20melon Posted June 2, 2007 Report Share Posted June 2, 2007 just remember, before doing your top coats, you want to get rid of all the scratches that you have created with the coarse paper, so you need to also look at working your way up to 600 grade wet paper. Also, between top coats (that's if you are going to do 2 coats), I would recomend 600 grade as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattaipan Posted June 2, 2007 Report Share Posted June 2, 2007 My long board paper fold up over the end and held with a couple of staples from a staple gun, no need to put them in all the way, I leave them up 2-3mm makes getting them out to change paper very fast. My top coats will be going on wet on wet, just letting the first coat flash off and then hitting again. If you get the undercoats right theres no need for sanding between top coats. Also I won't be going any finer than 400 grit before the top coats, to give the top coats more to hang on to. I think theres lots of ways to do the same things, so just go with what you've set yourself up to do, you'll be fine. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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