Removing a tramp?

[Hockeye]

It's probably been posted here before but how do I remove and replace my Windie tramp?

I'm aware that the hulls can be separated from the cross members (with a bit of effort).  Do I then slide the hulls off the tramp, then the tramp off the front cross member?

Or is there as easier way by pulling the tramp out of the lead-in/lead-out of the tramp tracks on the hulls?

 

BTW, I've just bought a pair of S/H Mk2 hulls in reasonable condition, complete with tramp and beams.  (Has a S/No stamped on the RHR of the rear cross member.) Has no gel cracks around the beam ends where connected to the hulls.  However has gel cracks along the deck/hull interface due to being sailed super sloop rigged and too much foot pressure on the hulls.

Interestingly it has forward hatches. about 150 mm dia with 2 levels of 50 mm thick horizontal polystyrene in the bows and a poly bulkhead just in front of the forward cross member.  Someone has squirted a lot of expanding foam in there to keep the polystyrene in place.

I'll need to re-glass the keels and fix a few nicks and dings, but I think I'll end up with some sound hulls onto which I'll transfer all my gear off my Mk1.

Any comments or advice would be appreciated.

 

Hockeye

[knobblyoldjimbo]

don't have a windy but for a mari you undo the tramp at the back, remove the electric conduit then ease it out on each side - two people helps and some washing up liquid for lubrication, then the tramp slides off the track at the front.

[Ogre0015]

Hi Hockeye,

 

I recently install a brand new tramp on my Windrush 14. I'd start by undoing the rope that is laced across the back securing the tramp. Then get someone to help you work it forward along the side tracks, you probably need to do 1-2 inches one side then the same on the other side till you have it completely out of the two side tracks. You can do this by yourself but you will have to move one side a bit then the other, easier to have someone help. You may need to fold the tramp under the front cross beam as you work it out of the side tracks. Then simply slide it out of the front track.

[Hockeye]

By the way, has anyone got some advice on replacement of the non-slip "carpet" on the decks?  I've removed all the old stuff and scraped off the glue.  Yacht parts suppliers only have the non slip white stick on stuff with the orange peel surface.  This tends to curl at the edges over time and becomes unsightly.  I also doubt that it provides enough grip when sailing wet.

Hockeye

[darcy1945]

Leave it off, if you find the hull to slippery, use surfboard wax.

[sando]

If the deck is rough after you remove the carpet and the gelcoat damaged, you could paint with a product called Deckgrip. Hides deck crazing and imperfections.  It can be tinted and is water based with a rubber fleck through it, better than glass or sand.  I have used it twice on restored boats and works well..

[Hockeye]

Thanks for your advice guys.  My tramp,came off easily once I gave it a starting tug on each side!  Thought it would be a marathon effort.

It's rotted SO where's the best place to get a new one?

Darcy do you have any for sale in good condition?

 

Have checked out the foam bulkheads in my new S/H Mk2 and some are loose.  Whats the best gupe to glue the polystyrene to the internals of the hulls?  The previous owner used expanding foam. NFG!

[Ogre0015]

Hi Hockeye,

 

There is a guy here in Adelaide that i spoke to a couple of weeks ago, he had a spare tramp for a windrush 14 that he said was in good condition, he was happy to sell it. I'll give him a call if you like and see if he is happy for me to pass on his phone number.

 

As for the loose foam in the hulls, I hate to tell you this but it is a pain in the a** to do. Don't use foam in there, I mixed up epoxy resin glue which goes rock hard and seems to have worked for me.

 

Do you have inspection ports at the back and front of the hulls? If not, you will need to cut 5" holes just aft of the front cross beams, do all the gluing of the foam inside the hulls and then install the inspection ports. This will give you a little extra room to work with.

 

I've attached a pic of where my inspection ports are.

 

 

[Hockeye]

Thanks Ogre

I'd be most interested in the S/H tramp ex SA if it's better than the one on my Mk1 Windie, which I was going to swap onto the Mk2 hulls.  Let me know if it's still for sale.

I also have got forward hatches behind the main beam.  In fact I've replaced the old hatches with slightly larger 150 mm hatches.  Like you say, I'm leaving them un bolted until I've finished work inside the hulls.

My polystyrene bulkheads are in reasonable condition and generally glued in using expanding foam.  However I note that the foam hasn't taken a grip on the fibreglass hull in some accessible locations.  Therefore I'm keen to know what is the best stuff to glue the foam to the fibreglass.  Polyester resin may do the trick.

Hockeye

[knobblyoldjimbo]

I know everyone loves poly resin but if you give it a bit of research you'll find that it's epoxy that will stick better.  There is no bond, just a mechanical connection, it's just glueing the parts and epoxy sticks better to existing parts.  You can use epoxy resin but bog it up with some form of filler or use epoxy glue.

I suppose you could also try other gunky substances like Sikaflex too.

[Ogre0015]

Yes i used an epoxy glue that was thickened into a paste using a filler. It came out really thick and I basically just applied it using long rubber gloves and rubbed it all over the inside hull and side of the foam. Amazing how hot that stuff gets as the chemical reaction goes off, got to work reasonably quickly and only make enough to do one hull at a time. I also used it to do a few small hull repairs near the rudders where the edge has chipped away. It sanded down nicely forming the shape of the hull lip.