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Keeping Rudders Down on A Mari cat 4.3


Gerrace_3500
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  • 4 weeks later...

These cams and cleat, supplied by Mick Colecliffe and work really well. They are now the standard equipment supplied by Maricat.

Some fine tuning and a bit of filing may be required to get the correct amount of holding and release.

They have worked for me anytime i have hit something "hard", ie large jelly fish.

 

I don't know what they cost but much less then a broken rudder or busted transom.... and simple, clean and easy to fit and use.

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C335ED7A-7548-41CC-A29B-670ABBA51C0D.jpeg

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That's an interesting one Rodney.  I had the 'new' ones on Sweet 16, possibly the tillers were thicker than standard but I needed to use a lever to release them.  This meant that I had to cut them back but how much is enough,  effectively one extra grind of the file will move them from too tight to too loose.

I opted to stump up the $60 for a pair of CL257 which have a small cam to adjust the release.

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  • 1 month later...
On 22/11/2017 at 3:36 PM, knobblyoldjimbo said:

That's an interesting one Rodney.  I had the 'new' ones on Sweet 16, possibly the tillers were thicker than standard but I needed to use a lever to release them.  This meant that I had to cut them back but how much is enough,  effectively one extra grind of the file will move them from too tight to too loose.

I opted to stump up the $60 for a pair of CL257 which have a small cam to adjust the release.

How do you like these cleats. The ones that Nacra use and some guys have on their Maricats, I have seen where they have not released when hitting objects, and in 2 different cases, their transoms ripped out of the back of their boats. One of these boats was a Nacra 5.8  , so no way do I want to put that type on my boat. These look very interesting, and the fact that the tension release is adjustable, is what I like most. I do notice that there is no fairlead on the cleat, do you have any issues with the rope being lost when you uncleat it. This is the only thing that I have of concern. I suppose I could put a lead to the rope through before it enters the cleat. Cheers David.

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Sorry Pointed Reply.  Looking at the photos you have the same type that is used on Nacra's. I was wanting the info and referring to the CL257 cleats that Knobbyoldjimbo was referring to. I know that you probably like your cleats, but having seen 2 boats down here with transoms ripped out of them, I dont want to chance that type. Thanks anyway.

 

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OK -

my boat came with these but they didn’t work at all and I’m sure some damage would have been done if I had not adjusted them. I don’t know the cost but I’m sure they would be quite a bit more than the CL 257 which appear to be about $30 each.

Many use a 2-1 to get suitable leverage on the rudder hold down. This would also give you extra rope for the lead.

The other thing is to consider using rope with some stretch from the rudder to the little block so that when pulled tight it applies some positive pressure.

 

5C252967-EBD9-4769-ADD6-05FA2DB5C9F8.jpe 

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20 hours ago, Badgered Cat said:

How do you like these cleats. The ones that Nacra use and some guys have on their Maricats, I have seen where they have not released when hitting objects, and in 2 different cases, their transoms ripped out of the back of their boats. One of these boats was a Nacra 5.8  , so no way do I want to put that type on my boat. These look very interesting, and the fact that the tension release is adjustable, is what I like most. I do notice that there is no fairlead on the cleat, do you have any issues with the rope being lost when you uncleat it. This is the only thing that I have of concern. I suppose I could put a lead to the rope through before it enters the cleat. Cheers David.

If you look at Rodney's setup.  I just have a knot in the end of the yellow rope.  This stops it from shooting out of the 2:1 block.

When I first put them on Sweet 16 we raced at Budgewoi in  fresh breeze.  I went past the mark on the upwind and had a fast close haul to the mark, windward hull was flying (and I was having fun!) - the cleat released and the rudder popped up.  Didn't matter and I just popped the cleat back in on the next leg.  On the beach I then adjusted the cam and it didn't happen again.  Without a fairlead you just have to lean back a bit further to recover the line.  They are alloy cleats so they don't let go when cleated.  Reseating the cleat just means gripping the hinge in your palm and squeezing on the tiller.

Since then I've mostly had it happen when coming back to the beach and I've not let the rudder up far enough.  Look at Rodney's setup and you'll see that a knot won't go past the 2:1 block so that's how far you'd have to reach to get it back into place although when you're coming home it won't matter.

Ronstan do a sheave-less block https://www.ronstan.com/marine/range.asp?RnID=423  which would be ideal for this application if you don't have a couple of small blocks hanging around although I've used shackles which work just as well.

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