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Repairing 5.8 Daggerboard Box

dryzabone 644

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Hi All,

Over the Easter weekend I have managed to push the dagger board far enough back in the slot to crack the hull in two directions

- Back along the bottom of the hull approx 80mm, and

- Up the back of the dagger board box approx 150mm. This looks to also have been previously cracked and repaired by throwing fibreglass resin at it from a distance.

The easiest solution so far that will give a solid repair involves cutting a port hole in the top of the hull and working from the inside.

I would like to avoid cutting a hole if I can and am looking for any repair suggestions.



[This message has been edited by dryzabone 644 (edited 18 April 2006).]

[This message has been edited by dryzabone 644 (edited 18 April 2006).]

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Hi Mitch,

What did you hit with the centreboard?

Rev knows how to split a 5.8 in half!

I reckon the best way to tackle this job is to cut a retangle piece out of the inner hull, don't cut hole in the deck because you can't see what you are doing and you will be at maximum reach with your hand.

First thing is to remove the tramp. I would cut a piece out apppox 300mm x 200mm. Mark out with a pencil or artline a nice retangle and drill 4 10mm holes in the corners, set up a jigsaw at 45 bevel so the piece will fall out of the hull not in to it and carefully cut the section out, dont disguard the cut out as you will need it to put the boat back together.

Do what you need to do inside the hull, reinforce anything that needs it while you are in there, you don't want to do the job twice.

Laminate about 4 layers of 450g/m2 chopped mat on a smooth waxed surface appox 500mm x 300mm and let cure, cut in to strips appox 50mm-60mm wide and glue these strips rough side to the hull on the inside of the hull with 25mm-30mm exposed from each side with a polyester resin and microsphere mix, also use clamps until cured. Paint exposed foam on the hull and the cut out with resin to seal the foam.

Once cured make up another resin/sphere mix and butter the bog on continuous around the hull and the cut out and place cut out into the hull checking alignment of the piece with the original hull, use a straight edge, wipe any excess bog off while its still green and allow to cure.

Feather out around the retangle and apply some glass and fair to finish the structural part of the job. Flowcoat, wet and dry and buff to finish the job off.

I hope this helps Mitch.

Regards Graceland 1591.

[This message has been edited by GRACELAND1216 (edited 18 April 2006).]

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Hi Mitch,

You use fibreglass release wax as used in moulds to seperate the materials when cured.

I would cut out the section appox 100mm behind the back of the centreboard case then mark 300mm behind that and mark the 200mm somewhere on the inside of the hull where its's flat, dont cut down low where it's curved.

Good luck Mitch, it's alway fun repairing something by using mirrors to see.

Regards Foreign Order.

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