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Ok, so first bit of money spent.


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Hi All,

Stopped off in west marine today and got sole Interlux 299e. I was told to strip the hulls on my epoxy coated ply tiger. He said that it would take the paint off nicely for me.

I also picked up brushes and plastic scrapers.

I went to go look at roof racks but they are 200(CDN) bux!

I also spoke to my bro in law and he said he had a trailer I could use, however I need to replace the lights and build the structure that I want, I already have rollers.

Did not think about any of this work....

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First things first, I don't know you from Adam, and i mean this in the nicest way but, don't "get sold" anything... My experience with most MARINE RETAILERS is that they have a vested interest in parting you from your money. (This is reasonable commercial practice except that the Marine pre-fix means Boat)... BOAT stands for Bring On Another Thousand... L.O.L.

Ask a million questions from all the free resources available then make an informed decision... You have quite possibly made a good decision to strip rather than sand... without seeing it 1st hand it's hard to judge...

O.K. the second thing to contemplate is the acceptance or change in mindset. Once you have done it the 1st time you will either be a convert or hate it! Do you want to be a sailor or a player of boats? Or accept that the 2 go hand in hand with a love of all things Nautical...

It's all part of the learning curve... ZEN and the art of boat maintenance...

Remember the journey should be part of the fun, not just the destination, where ever one sits in this equation, says more about us than we all think!

Best of luck & persistence, you can do it!


Leroy wink.gif

P.S.- Having dicked around with cats large & small for 27 nearly 28 years and love both building & sailing, I think that i was trying to be PROFOUND, INSIGHTFUL OR EVEN MOTIVATIONAL... not sure i suceeded but good luck & go for it anyway!

[This message has been edited by Leapin Leroy (edited 15 May 2007).]

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Thanks for the motivation Leroy!

I think the hulls need to be stripped for sure.

Here is a close up of the bad spot. You can see where the paint has peeled away to reveal the epoxy/plywood underneath.


I am hoping that the stripper with take off most of the loose paint and that I can scrape off the rest with the plastic scrapers I bought. I am starting the stripping process this weekend so I will be posting lots of pictures here for you all to see...

I am not very handy, but I have done hard wood floors, kitchen and bath renovations and ceramic tile work so I am hoping that I will be competent enough to do this.


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G'day Andrew,

Welcome to the Paper Tiger class.

Like Leroy said, there is a wealth of advice just waiting to be asked for on these forums. I am no boat restoration expert, but I am heavily involved with the Paper Tiger class, so I may be able to help in some way.

There are a number of Paper Tigers in Canada and the USA, though I doubt any of the others have Hobie 14 rigs! The H14 rig is a very heavy option for a PT. It may also affect the excellent balance of the standard PT. It would also contravene class rules, though I doubt that is an issue for you at this point.

Anyway, the PT is a great boat and is worth the effort, assuming it is still reasonably sound.

The Paper Tiger Catamaran class is quite big in Australia and New Zealand (around 40 boats at National Championships in each country), with small numbers in other countries, including South Africa and North America. The class runs International Championships 2 years out of every 3 (the last one was held over Easter this year in New Plymouth, New Zealand).

Should you have any questions about the class, please feel free to ask. We are more than happy to help where we can.

I would like to get any details you may have about the boat so as to maintain the class records that I keep. Anything like the boat name, sail number (not the one on the H14 sail, but maybe it was on the back beam), previous owner, etc. If you want, you can post it here or e-mail me on "dave at papertigercatamaran dot org"


David Stumbles


Paper Tiger Catamaran International Assoc.

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The Cat was home built by a fellow named Gerry ter Haar. He sailed it with his family for 20 years before he sold it to me.

It has a hobie 14 rig in it right now, and you say this is too heavy, can you suggest how I might go about re-rigging it?

I was going to buy a square topped sail from Whirlwind:


That along with a hooter would make her go pretty good would it not? I have no plans to race this thing, I just want to have some fun with my little girls (9 and 6) on it.

I do not think that getting a new mast is in the cards for me, unless it is a used mast from another hobie or some such boat. Should I try and find a hobie 16 rig?


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I wouldn't attempt to put a Hobie 16 rig on a PT. Stick with something more around the size of the current H14 main. The PT is a weight sensitive boat. Having three people on it and a stack of sail and mast is likely to see it pushing a lot of water. You would need to watch the tripping of the bow in stronger breezes with this kind of load on it.


PTs are just about never sold as a complete boat when brand new. Nearly everyone one of them is assembled by the new owner.

Prices vary depending on whether the hulls are home built in timber and plywood or professionally built in foam sandwich. The foam sandwich hulls start at around $3900 for a pair. To this must be added the beams, tramp, centreboards, rudders, mast, boom, sail, fittings, rigging, etc.

Approximate prices are:

- Sail and tramp $1700

- Mast and beams $460

- Foils $700 - $1000

- Fittings $1000

So around $8000 - $9000 is possible, but this can be more depending on the actual gear used.

A guy at my club recently completed a plywood one home-built for around $4000, but that including making his own foils. So it can be done cheaply. Plywood boats are just as competitive as foam sandwich. Last year's International Champion boat was a 20 year old ply boat and the current Australian Champion boat is a plywood boat.



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thanks for that. I have a Nacra 4.5 with a kite and love it, but I was thinking of sailing at Toukley next summer and I thought a PT would possibly be an option. I like the weight of them. I had an A-class for a while and loved moving it around where the 4.5 is not so managable alone.

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Yes, the Paper Tiger is definitely an easy boat to manage alone, especially if the trailer and beach trolley are set up well. The bare platform is just 50kg.

An alternative to buying a new PT is purchasing a good second hand one. Good second-hand foam sandwich ones can be purchased for a lot less than a new one.

Toukley has a long history of PTs. It is also close to the Mannering Park fleet, which continues to grow.

Let me know if you need any further information or lists of boats for sale or names of sellers of new hulls and equipment.



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Hi Andrew

I've built 1 PT, re-decked 1, and currently repairing and doing up another one. All Ply.

The process that I would take to repaint the hulls is:

1. Use your Interlux 299 to strip the paint off the ply. The only concern that I have using this product is that it might "eat" into any sealer that is protecting the ply from water.

2. Dry sand (

3. Using an epoxy (like: http://www.yachtpaint.com/australia//product_guide/epiglass/default.asp#CP219898) with a filler powder to fill grain, and any dings, etc... Once set, dry sand again.

repeat step 3 if necessary.

4. I would suggest to re-seal the ply just incase the paint stripper has gone through the sealer. I found this happened when I stripped the paint off the one that I'm doing up. - In Australia, the product I used was: ( http://www.norglass.com.au/cgi-bin/frontcart/frontcart.pl?command=details&itemid=3 )

Using this product also acts as a primer too, so rather than "dead" weight it's doing 2 jobs.

5. lightly sand (400-600grade wet) - this is to get rid of any raised wood grain.

6. Time to undercoat. This step is optional. I know of some boats that only have the sealer on and then 2 top coats, and that's it. I would suggest to use a 2-pac undercoat ( http://www.norglass.com.au/cgi-bin/frontcart/frontcart.pl?command=details&itemid=14 ). But if you aren't comfortable with using a highly toxic product then don't use any undercoat.

Sand the undercoat with 600 grade wet.

2 reasons to use an undercoat: a. to see if i have missed filling anything (which is usually the way - until you get an even cover over the boat, it's hard to see some dings and scraches). b. if you are painting orange or yellow (or some light colours) they usually say that you need a solid colour underneath as the paint doesn't cover as thick as other colours. Becareful though with some undercoats, they shrink after the initial sand, so you have to leave for a few weeks before final sanding and top coat.

7. Top Coats. Here you have a choice of type of paints to use. The best option to use is a 2-pac for best and long lasting results, but as with the undercoat, without the correct gear (correct respirator, ventilation, etc..) I wouldn't attempt it.

One other option is an epoxy-based single pack paint - ( http://www.whiteknightpaints.com.au/product/view/rust-guard-epoxy-enamel# ). I used this paint on one of the boats I had and it lasted at least 6 years without any problems (I say 6 years as after 6 I had to re-deck the boat, so I re-painted the whole boat). Would have been still glossy too. This paint sets quite hard - but not as hard as 2-pac.

Final option is taking it to a professional to paint. As long as you are happy with your preparation and undercoating, then the top coats should come out fairly good. I believe spraying a PT is harder than a car because of the sharp edges. A professional could charge anywhere between $500AUD to $1500AUD.

8. Finished. Once painted and before putting together you should "bake" the paint by leaving the hulls outside in the sun (preferably hanging by the bolts that hold the beams to the hulls so you don't get any flattening from the weight). Remember to take them back inside before it gets dark/cold.

This is the process that I've done for 3 boats.

I've posted the links for your reference so you can see if you can get similar products.



[This message has been edited by h20melon (edited 18 May 2007).]

[This message has been edited by h20melon (edited 18 May 2007).]

[This message has been edited by h20melon (edited 18 May 2007).]

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