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Boat age?


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well it depends on who applied for or obtained the numbers, some builders were known to buy a block of numbers and take two to four years to use them as would some private builders who took more than that before they even cut the ply.....lol

my 1st PT was built early to mid 70's by allan Duckers and was purchased by me in 79 ? (i think it was) and it had sail # 694. Lapin Bleu which was built in 74/75, I think and was NSW state junior and senior champs boat was over the 1000 number so it is a bit confusing to pin boats down by their numbers....

some have had new hulls built at a later stage with old hulls disposed of....

only spilpac and association registrars could relly help in pinning down boats ages along with the professional builders who may have kept records.

cheers dave

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Thanks Dave

My older boat "Why Worry?” is number 1464, and has a fibreglass skin (no foam) over a timber frame. At the Vic State Titles over the last couple of years I've talked about changes in boat manufacturing with 'Tiger builders, and it seemed likely this boat was from around 1972. If it were older, it'd still be ply, and if it were newer, it'd be foam core, or at least not have a timber internal frame. Unless some amateur borrowed hull moulds and plans for a timber boat to build this hybrid relic.

The sail number 694 fits your explanation that new hulls were made to upgrade an existing boat, perhaps from the ‘60s. To fit my theory, Lapin Bleu would have been numbered around 1600? But as you said, sail numbers may have been set aside in lots, such as 1200-1500 for Vic, 1500-1800 for NSW or something like that? I’ve asked the VIC measurer, but he couldn’t find records of either boat.

In any case, the unusual hybrid construction makes it an interesting historical marker in boat construction. Why Worry has been in the Mallacoota fleet for around 20 years, with at least 4 people claiming to have been previous owners. Although the hull it now about 80kg, and the boat is proven to be the slowest and heaviest of 33 entering the State Titles last year, I reckon it’s worth keeping as a cultural heritage artefact. She’ll be entering the race at Lake Wellington next weekend.

When measuring a roof for a drafting job last year, I saw an old Tiger, 2128 “Tega Too”, in a backyard. On closer inspection, it was covered in slime, moss and lichens, on a trailer that was so rusted it had collapsed. The boat had fallen onto the mudguards, holing both hulls, which were then half-full of water. It had been a top racing boat at the Mallacoota Boat Club, which folded around 1995 due to key members moving out of town. It’s now fully restored, named “Pelikinetic”, and going well.

2128 has foam core hulls with no internal frames or timber work, very similar to vacuum formed hulls I was helping Paul Kulmar build in 1983, Dee Why, Sydney (when I was 15, working after school). This is why I thought it’d be around 1982 vintage. However, it still has thin bracing struts on the front cross-bar, which apparently were upgraded to thicker ones in the ‘70’s sometime.

Based on all the info, I’m going with 1464 Why Worry is from 1972, and 2128 from 1979, but remain keen to hear any further info.


Tony Hastings



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  • 3 weeks later...


2128 was built by PT yachts, not Fay. From what I read in the PT Tuning Manual, they were vac forming foam hulls into a female mould in 1979.

The hulls recently started leaking from a split betweent the deck & bottoms, near the rear cross beam. Is there a recommended way to fix this?

On 1464 I ground out the crack and used fibreclass cloth & resin to glass over the crack. Hasn't lasted long; already cracked again.

Might try "seal & flex" gap-filling flexible glue this time.


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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Tony,

Interesting reading regarding boat age.. There have been a lot of different construction techniques over the years.

I'm not sure of the best way to fix your deck problem, just make sure the beam bolts are fixed to a frame that is connected to the hull, not just a plate at the sides under the deck. Some S.A. paper tigers were built this way, and the rear beam keeps pulling the deck off if not fixed correctly.

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Thanks for that Tom,

The hulls have no frames.

The cross beams bolt through the deck about 50mm in from the gunwales. A strip about 12mm thick x 100mm wide going across the boat reinforces the deck underneath each beam.

The strip appears to be an offcut of foam-core fibreglass, such as from a mould or bigger boat, with glass laminate top & bottom but exposed foam at the edges.

There are metal squares, about 20mm square x 1mm thick, which act as washers on the bolts inside the boat.

The decks & hull bottoms are glued together with a bead of white grout, which is 1 to 4mm wide. This is cracking just in front of the rear cross-beam, where I sit the most.

I've tried removing the cracked grout & filling the seam with "seal & flex" polyurethane, which seems OK so far.

Bonus application of 'seal & flex" (cheaper version of "Sikaflex"), is that it makes a great non-slip coating for sailing gloves.

I'm a little concerned that a week of pounding through waves on the bay will cause further cracking. On the other hand, the boat has lasted nearly 30 years so far, so she'll be right ay?


Tony Hastings (2128 Pelikinetic)


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