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Rudder refurb questions


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Most problems are the tiller arms lowering over time and hitting the hulls and getting wear in the hole causing the blade to wabble as they go through the water. Firstly, don't touch the blades by building up the top profile. This profile is important to the rudder functioning properly. If the hole bolt hole is elongated you can drill out the blade to 12mm and insert a stainless steel bush.

Most of the wear which makes the arms drop is either in the two riverts where the top casting is joined to the bottom casting. The casting wears so replacing the riverts does not fix the problem. You will find that the hole sizes are different and the rivet is stepped down to match. I drill the casting to the larger size and replace the riverts with round head bolts and nyloc nuts. If you ground down the head so that just enough of the phillip head slots are left you will have enough clearance for the blade. Use a No2 phillips head bit that fits into you drill to hold the head and adjust the nyloc nut so there is movement but little play sideways.

The other problem is the 3/16 pins in the wheel/roller that sits on the blade. It bends over time and elongates the hole in the casting. I drill the hole and the roller out ot 6 mm and make a stud from a 6 mm bolt. I do the one wire runs over as well. This will lift the tiller arm up to where it used to be.

To really make the job complete replace the wire with spectra but be warned it works so much better but be prepared to replace the sprectra every 6 months.

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