Jump to content

caper indeed- cutting one open for a restore


Recommended Posts

Just finished grinding today Sunday at 2pm, council ranger rocks up 3.30pm. I escort him off the property and said lets talk' he said he's recording the conversation- I reply I have nothing to say, he leaves.

If he had anything on me he'd be giving a fine- next door neighbor is a NIMBY, mother has dementia and raves her head off all day, dogs bark alot and this grub(lives with his mum is like 60year old gronk, ex urban utilities bludger) rings the council. Shows why the domestic economy is up the spout, lots of obese boomer grubs, holding the coin, sitting around jerking off to russia leso porn all day- move to rainbow beach- it's got NBN now ffs!

Anyway all fun tomorrow- 3:1 and fabric layers, get it right unlike the original, do the lay ups flat, till gel stage so it retains thickness.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Finished the inside layers, now to fit them back together- will be using adheseal pu50- like 5200 3m

Fit them up dry, use timber blocks to spread the hull to the deck size, making it constant for the shape internally- will be taping inside with more VE and fibreglass 100 mm tape, also 2 storage bins to make up.

 

RESIZE 3.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Torch light shows up the stress cracks, some go well past the outside gelcoat into the hull- if not repaired correctly they would just reappear in the new finish. This boat has an issue of hardpoint along the bottom just up from the keel, so I will reinforce it with extra cloth along that area.

STRESS FRACTURES.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fairing it all out is probably the most skilled job of the whole effort, the cc aren't very well molded to start with- has divots along the sides of the hull- so if you want it to look straight/sharp either use a 750mm hand longboard or if you use a belt sander if you are good at using it! Pity rupes doesn't still make the extra long based orby they use to- it would be perfect for finishing off the fairing surface.

Vinylester resin has 72hr chemical bond window, layers x-link- the earlier the stronger the bond.

Making fairing compound is much cheaper using the bulk resin, fumed silica 1part and q-cells 3parts. Old school.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...