adb1 Posted December 31, 2010 Report Share Posted December 31, 2010 A have a Hobie 16, around 1993. I'd like to take out a couple of young nephews but I'd prefer to have less power to make it safer. I'm not an experienced sailor. My main does not have reef points. Are there instructions on exactly where to put reef points and can you suggest a sailmaker in Sydney who can do it please ? Thanks for any help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TornadoSport260 Posted January 1, 2011 Report Share Posted January 1, 2011 Where in sydney are you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adb1 Posted January 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2011 I'm at Manly. We sailing from Sandy Point at Palmie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Nelson Posted January 11, 2011 Report Share Posted January 11, 2011 HI There Have a think about becoming involved with the club at Palm Beach www.pbsc.org.au Some advice and training will help to make your sailing safer and more enjoyable Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyB Posted October 27, 2011 Report Share Posted October 27, 2011 Seems a great club Andrew, but we don't sail enough to make it worthwhile. I just want to slow our 16 down to make it safer for kids. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyB Posted December 23, 2011 Report Share Posted December 23, 2011 Ferrules on main halyard Is it essential to have the second ferrule on the main halyard, when reefing a Hobie 16 ? That is, are there any problems in just hoisting the main as far as possible and tying it off, without locking it off ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darcy1945 Posted December 24, 2011 Report Share Posted December 24, 2011 Probably not essential, but you will not be able to get any cunningham tension unless your halliard is spectra or similar non stretch rope. The halliard being under tension back down the mast will also inhibit mast bend in one direction if cleated on the side of the mast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyB Posted December 24, 2011 Report Share Posted December 24, 2011 Thanks Darcy. When the main is sheeted, I assumed that less tension on the cunningham should be used, to reduce stress on the reefing eyelets. Is this correct ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterM Posted December 24, 2011 Report Share Posted December 24, 2011 You can use the original ferrule by simply tying a 700mm length (the length between the reefing point and the downhaul) of spectra or dyema between the wire halyard end eyelet shackel and the sail head grommit, then you basicly have a halyard the same as a halyard fitted with a reefing ferrule and none of the other problems. Hobie 16 is very managable in over 20 knots with the reef in it. You use the amount of cunningham downhaul you need to flatten the sail out (bend the mast) for the wind conditions you are in, if you need to depower with the reef in use the downhaul first as much as with a full sail and then if you need to depower more move the travelcar out a car width at a time, the jib cars should already be out a little in heavy wind and a reef in to stop the jib counter rotating the mast and back winding the main, if you are still getting back wind move them out more, Have a Hobie day! PM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darcy1945 Posted December 27, 2011 Report Share Posted December 27, 2011 The reefing points at Tack and Clew should be tight, the eyelets across the sail should be very loosely tied, any tension on these may tear the sail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyB Posted December 29, 2011 Report Share Posted December 29, 2011 Very good advice. Thank you Peter and Darcy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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