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the_slot


seabreeze

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The Slot i think you are referring to is the setting of the jib and main where the correct gap and curvature of the sails maximises pressure or force yielding the best possible acceleration and boat speed. All the wind indicators on the main should be flowing and not stalled. If the jib is too tight it will backwind the mainsail. Too loose a jib will also not generate maxcimum 'lift'. When you are in the groove or slot the boat accelerates and powers up.

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Have you seen the wing on an Airbus (or Boeing) when coming in to land, the rear section and the front section drop down effectively making the wing much rounder. The slot that the front section creates increases the flow of air over the top of the wing. The resultant lower pressure (caused by the air moving faster over the top) creates lift.

Look at the big americas cup boats that now hydrofoil. They use a foresail, presumably for the same effect.

I always thought that a bit of backwinding of the mainsail was good but I'd be happy to be corrected. In the old days, in GP14's that had big genoas the front third of the main often backwinded - this was the standard but that may be the type of boat (big, heavy) and the best way to drive it. I imagine a Nacra 5.8 wouldn't show much backwinding.

Frank Bethwaite's High Performance Sailing and Higher Performance Sailing would be a good start (you'll need plenty of coffee to keep you awake though!).

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Thanking you Squires for the enlightening clarity of your response. cheers, i'm gonna play with the strings this w/end bearing your kind advice in mind and see what happens and where it takes me. thanx!

faber est quisque fortunae suae / every man is the fashioner of his own fortune

= your guiding words appreciated

Do you tend to sheet the jib hard on and the mainsheet blocks block to block and then play the mainsheet traveller when close hauled [like the hobies] when sailing on a windrush? or something else works better?

(Thinking that theres maybe more easier adjustment on the jib cars and a crew to attend to them to get a better sailshape on a hobie 16, say, being for optimum air flow and high end performence. maybe not?)

Would you be so kind as to share where to place the jib cars on a windy 14? - about 60 cm back from the beam about right you think - or more or less? do you then set and forget them or d'you happen to move them around the joint being over the course and fortune of any particular race?

is it possible to fashion the wild thing on a windy? any tips?

bless ya heart and cotton sox. ta.

yo, of possible interest is that 'empty vessells make the most sound'

and, hope i dont fall off the boat again over the w/end....

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Guest KelmEffifsGemPC

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  • 2 weeks later...

The jib car should be placed so that the jib-sheet evenly 'disects' the mid point of the jib's foot and leech - so you get even tension when u crank it on...

Heavier breezes and overpowered conditions - move the cars further back - to allow the leech to exhaust more easily... you can also play with placing the jib blocks on the attachment hole that is one lower than the mid-point... I know that's what Warren Pfeiffer does – and he's unbeatable in heavy conditions..

Playing the mainsheet traveller just isn't possible in any kind of breeze, and the best way is to set it for the conditions - and play the mainsheet. On the wind the theory is the traveller is centred, unless you simply can't hold the boat down... then let it out until you can handle the conditions better... of course letting it out too far inhibits upwind angles... (in theory) - but if you're in survival conditions - you just have to do what's necessary to maintain control – and never cleat the main - that's a recipe for disaster in stronger winds... :p

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