exhogger Posted July 31, 2012 Report Share Posted July 31, 2012 Slipping along nicely in 11-12 knot breeze on Lake Mulwala on Sun when suddenly the motor stopped. A swage on the mast shroud let go and down it all came. At least the breeze blew it all over the side so none of it punctured the tramp, hulls or me. Got towed back to the pits and have replaced one and re squeezed all the others and am now waiting for a similar breeze for a test run. [ATTACH=CONFIG]883[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]884[/ATTACH] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darcy1945 Posted July 31, 2012 Report Share Posted July 31, 2012 Hope your next excursion has better results, you need to tighten most of your battens (they should be firm in the sail before any downhaul is applied) and your jib tack looks to be to high to get a good sheeting angle (check bridle length) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exhogger Posted August 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2012 Yes Darcy, I've only just found the correct way to tie the cords and use the cleats on the battens correctly so I'll fix that. I have already added about 6" to the top of the forestay to bring the bottom of the jib down level with the main and its as low as I can get it as the jib tack is at the bridle now. I have measured the bridle length and it is correct at 110cm (I think) but I assume that is for a 4.3 so what difference it would make for a 4.0, if any, I don't know. The jib shape, and area appears to be different to others I see in the gallery but I guess its an older and smaller sail (4.0). I can find no specs for the 4.0 anywhere. Your comments and observations are very welcome Darcy, thank you. Ross Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darcy1945 Posted August 1, 2012 Report Share Posted August 1, 2012 The 4.0 is several inches narrower than the 4.3 so a 4.3 bridle will be quite a bit higher at the tack on a 4.0 As a start point put a piece of tape on the jib luff, 1/3 of the way up from tack to head. The line from the tape through the clue and down to the deck (With the rig tight) is the start point for your jib blocks. If that point is to far forward, (when jib sheeted on hard) the leach of your jib will be tight (choking the slot) and the foot loose, if to far aft, foot tight leach loose and the leach will flutter, if in the correct place both leach and foot will have similar tension and the leach will only flutter if it's stuffed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exhogger Posted October 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2012 After getting a set of beach wheels from Dr Peter ex his 4.3 I found I had to move the hull supports in by 140mm to suit my 4.0. I will try and work out the geometry and shorten the bridle which will bring the jib tack down and hopefully flatten out the jib. Currently it doesn't sheet down square, it pulls tight on the leech. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pointed Reply Posted October 28, 2012 Report Share Posted October 28, 2012 Hopefully you can make it to Sail Inland Albury on the 17/18 November. PR will be there. Like last year we can have a rigging and tuning session on Saturday morning, then go for a sail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exhogger Posted October 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2012 Exhogger will now make the journey to Albury on Sat the 17th to take advantage of the legendary PO's mariknowlage. Looking forward to it. Ross Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darcy1945 Posted October 29, 2012 Report Share Posted October 29, 2012 exhogger, I need measurements for Mari 4.0 tramp asap, can you help, my ph 0243591729. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pointed Reply Posted October 29, 2012 Report Share Posted October 29, 2012 So you can fool some of the people some of the time !! Keep saying nice things like that and I may let you have a sail on the foamie. Now for the jib bridle..... Here is my suggestion on how to determine the correct bridle length. A 4.3 is 1870mm from bow to bow, the bridles are 1055mm saddle to shackle and 500mm for the height of the triangle. So to work out the correct length for a 4.0 bridle measure the distance bow to bow and work out the ratios. If you shorten the bridle too much then you will put inward force on the bows which can cause compression stress. The mast rake looks about right from the photo so you will need to lengthen the wire strop at the top of the jib. ie: if the height of the triangle drops 150mm then you will need the lengthen the strop by 150mm. The correct sheeting position will be where there is about equal pressure on both foot and leech. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exhogger Posted October 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2012 ....... and some of the people most of the time. I even typed PO instead of PR. Ho hum. Foamie, struth I can barely manage the geriatric hogger ! The 4.0 is 1715mm bow to bow. To maintain the 500mm this makes the bridles 992.5mm, I doubt I will have the lengths altered and a new strop by the 17th though. Ross. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darcy1945 Posted October 29, 2012 Report Share Posted October 29, 2012 Darcy again, could you run a tape over your tramp for me, just want to check length beam to beam, and width front of tramp and back of tramp. Had ordered over the ph and the measurements don't seem right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pointed Reply Posted October 30, 2012 Report Share Posted October 30, 2012 The height will need to change as well so if 1715/1870 = 91.7% then, the bridle will be 967mm and the height 458mm. To try it first just use good quality non stretch rope (spectra) for the bridle and some finer cord or a chain plate for the pennant at the top of the jib. That way you can adjust it until you get the desired angle, then make up a wire bridle and pennant. Another rule of thumb for the sheeting position is to draw an imaginary line from one third up the luff of the sail down through the clew to the deck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exhogger Posted October 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2012 Thanks for doing the maths. I thought you meant that there was a requirement to keep the height at 500mm so none of the calculations made sense. I realize the new wire must be stainless but is there a requirement for it to be plastic coated? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darcy1945 Posted October 30, 2012 Report Share Posted October 30, 2012 No, only required for class racing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pointed Reply Posted January 28, 2013 Report Share Posted January 28, 2013 Ross, How are you going with the repairs to the hull near the chain plate ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exhogger Posted January 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2013 All done Rod. A guy in Jindera did the job and I'm happy with it. Its as solid as a rock and was tested in some 20 - 25kph breezes. As you can see the plate is stainless and bent and bolted directly to the chainplate attachment. [ATTACH=CONFIG]1126[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]1127[/ATTACH] Not the prettyest but the hull was badly cracked right through. Ross Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demon sailor Posted January 26, 2015 Report Share Posted January 26, 2015 Had a bad day yesterday the mast step casting decided it had had enough & jumped over board in to port Phillip bayon its way down the boom hit the front beam & snapped had about 20 minutes before the great people from port Melbourne life saving club came to my rescue & towed me to the beach Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
korwich Posted January 27, 2015 Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 How old was the boat? Not aware there were many Mari's still sailing in Vic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demon sailor Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 not shore of age boat sail no's are 1880 or 1379 have only seen one other mari in two years I bought one complete boat & another boat without front beam & rudders 2years ago from a guy that sailed at Blairgowriesecond boat is now missing a tramp & mast step & boom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exhogger Posted January 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 Still sailing the 4.0 EXHOGGER at Yarrawonga. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim731 Posted March 22, 2015 Report Share Posted March 22, 2015 Hi exhogger. I was just wondering how your chain plate mod was going. I'm looking at doing the same on my 4.3 as its let go completely on one side (had fixed but starting to crack again) and the other side is doing the same (again have had fixed professionally and it's still doing it). Did you worry about putting anything on the back side at all?? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exhogger Posted March 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2015 The chainplate repair is solid as a rock Tim. There would be nothing on the backside as there is no access to the inside of the hulls. The guy used Sikaflex and I'm assuming splayed as opposed to normal rivets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim731 Posted March 25, 2015 Report Share Posted March 25, 2015 Thanks exhogger. what thickness stainless did they use?? Sorry for all the questions im keen to get mine back in the water thats all. I've even contemplated splitting the hulls and really making it solid from the inside, as i now have a second spare set of hulls to practice on. Cheers for the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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