matt Posted January 21, 2014 Report Share Posted January 21, 2014 I have recently returned to sailing after 20+yrs. my local y/c sails windrush14s so i'm looking for a cheapish boat can someone explain the differences between a mk1,2,3 and approx. what sail nos the changes were at. also what problems each model has. i'm not looking for a top boat just a competitive club boat for sale in vic.(Gippsland) thanks in advance -matt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
interested Posted January 21, 2014 Report Share Posted January 21, 2014 Mk I Windrush-Also called Surfcats,F/Glass with single inspection covers at rear,has older beach (teardrop shaped) rudder set upMk II Bulkhead Windrush,F/Glass,extra inspection covers near sidestays,drop down Blade rudder system.Mk IIII Windrush,F/Glass Foam Sandwich,similar to Bulkhead Mk II. Not certain when the Bulkheads and Foamie numbers started,I have a Bulkhead #4600For club racing get a Mk II Bulkhead or Mk III Foamie,look for a complete package with Mylar sails,Reg trailer,Beach Rollers and Coffinbox storage on trailer.These combined "extras" will cost you more than the price of an average Windy if you have to buy them seperate afterwards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darcy1945 Posted January 21, 2014 Report Share Posted January 21, 2014 The main difference between mk1 and mk2 , is the the current, traveller integrated rear beam, commenced with the mk2, this beam fits straight into the mk 1 (If you find good mk1 hulls), The bulkhead and foam boats can sail to yardstick mk1 and 2 GRP will not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt Posted January 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2014 thanks guys. the boats down the local club have sail nos in the 2500-3000 range any idea what model these are? yardsticks not really that important to me just want even sailing against the other boats. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Just One More Posted January 22, 2014 Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 MattWindys with these numbers would be later versions of the mark 1. A lot of guys race these boats as you can get one relatively cheap. If you check on the back beam casting there will be a number like 77E. I believe the 77 maybe the year of manufacture. Basically the latter the number the lighter the boat so a later 3000 Series number is the one to look for. Keep in mind an earlier boat kept in a garage all its life would probably be a better buy.If the other boats are around the same vintage look for the same trying to Get one which has been really looked after. If you get competitive, put new sails on it and wait for a good lightweight foam boat to come up and transfer the new gear.In the meantime enjoy sailing against the other guys.If nobody else upgrades then put your money back in your pocket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badboy Posted February 13, 2014 Report Share Posted February 13, 2014 Matt I have compiled a list of all the known changes to the Windrush 14 from the first to present. Its a bit detailed and long for here do you have a email I will send it to you. Cheers Quin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt Posted February 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2014 thanks heaps badboy hopefully message has been sent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt Posted February 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2014 ok so after ignoring all your advice ive gone and bought myself a boat (4859). had a go at rigging it on the trailer when I got home and have a few questions. 1 there doesn't seem to be any (easy) way of adjusting the mast rake. all the shrouds clip onto the boat with some spring clips(rf533). assuming the mast is raked ok for helm how do you get enough rig tension to prevent the jib luff blowing out to leeward, (or isn't this important in cats). 2 I cant see any way to control the traveller, there are 2 rollers on the traveller car but nowhere to cleat off the ropes from each side. 3 I assume the small saddles aft of the stays are for the trap wires, how do people rig these? - im thinking a piece of bungy from one trap down across to the other then up to the other trap wire. but I bow to the wisdom of those that have a clue. more questions after ive got it wet. cheers - matt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slammin Posted February 28, 2014 Report Share Posted February 28, 2014 No expert but here is what I have learnt thru trial and error. I have these adjusters https://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10001&storeId=11151&productId=24877&langId=-1 they are on the same setting as when I bought the cat. I was unable to clip them on unless I was hanging on the main halyard , bending the mast and my son would clip the shroud on. Now I raise the mast singlehanded by runnning an "extension" ropes from each of the shrouds thru the hull saddles and back to the mast where there is a bull horn cleat for the down haul. After I have lifted the mast up I take up the tension on the shrouds with the extension ropes and cleat off. I can then easily go and clip 1 side of the shrouds on as there is no real tension required. I then clip the mainsheet to the main halyard, at the further most point on the traveller obviously on the same side as the remaining shroud to be clipped on. I can then tension the mainsheet and induce enough rake allowing me then to clip the remaining shroud on. Voila! As b4 I may be making a crucial mistake but it has worked for me so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slammin Posted February 28, 2014 Report Share Posted February 28, 2014 Oh yeah for the traveller mine has similar to this.... without the split sheet. It is hard to see but the sheet is attached to the beam then goes thru the travellers 2 wheels and then back to the central main sheet traveller clam cleats located centrally on the beam. The cam cleats adjust the amount of travel. The sheet then continues to the triple ratchet so it is a continuos line. This should be much better explained in the manual available from many sources. I think my E-copy was from the WA Windrush Assoc website. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
interested Posted February 28, 2014 Report Share Posted February 28, 2014 1.Mast rake - use the https://www.westmari...24877&langId=-1 on all stays.They will allow you to adjust mast rake and rig tension depending on wind strength and crew weights.If you find your Windy wants to bury the nose then rake the mast back a notch or 2 to suit your cat (trial and error)..If your mast rake is OK with the forestay hooked directly to mast you will need to get it shortened 100mm to accomodate the https://www.westmari...24877&langId=-1 2.Traveller - I will take some pics tomorrow when set up and post tomorrow night.Its easy as long as you have all the bits. I have #4600 so I assume it is similar,the traveller car is locked from centre swivel cleat. 3.Traps - 1 continuous elastic/bungy from 1 trap down under across the tramp and up to other trap.I also use ronstan cam-cleats on my rings (easy to adjust your height when out on traps but also makes rigging mast SOLO easy if traps connected-will also take pics to show you the benefits)Enjoy your Windy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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