Tim731 Posted March 21, 2015 Report Share Posted March 21, 2015 Hey all,Just finding out how people have fixed cracks that start along the under side of the lip. I've had one side fixed professionally and it seems to have started to crack again. Any help would be good. Cheers all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darcy1945 Posted May 1, 2015 Report Share Posted May 1, 2015 Tim, if the problem persists, I have good 2nd hand hulls for $100 pr, Mk1 or 2. 02 43591729 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim731 Posted May 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 Thanks darcy. I picked up a second set boat quite cheap ($250) that had a nearly new trap and a pretty good set of sails. However the STBD hull appears to have had a bit of hull/deck seperation and they pervous owner has drilled and rivoted them back together so which doesnt allow the gunwale to be reattached correctly. Im going to use this as a test and pull the deck off and have a look into it and see whats involved in repairing and strengthing the attachment place from behind. Cheers though I might give you a ring before I start to get some info as to what to expect and what to use. I'll attach some pics soon of what mine doing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim731 Posted May 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 If just added the pics Darcy there in a gallery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darcy1945 Posted May 12, 2015 Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 I have seen a triangular s/steel plate, bolted through hull, 90 degree bend under the deck join, bolted to stay plate.seemed to be effective. To glass reenforce from the inside, cut a hole on the inside of the hull to work through, 2"to 3" below deck join and big enough to get you hand in, give me a call on 02 43591729 for better explanation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim731 Posted May 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2015 No worries. I will do. How do you go about colour matching the deck back to yellow though?? That's the main reason I wasn't going to do that. Also both hulls take on a fair amount of water. And I'm pretty certain that it's from under the black rubber as I've sealed up the tramp track already. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knobblyoldjimbo Posted May 14, 2015 Report Share Posted May 14, 2015 Answer to that one is to put a hatch on the rear deck, you might already have one, you'll need to when the rudder pintles need fixing. Tip the boat up (ie stern off the trailer) then tip water onto the deck and see when it pours down. I had to do this on my Careel 18 once and Darcy's last boat didn't have rubbers and I guess for this reason. I guess you can use the bungs too (forgot them because I've not got any). The hull to deck join is usually made with a creamy goop that apparently deteriorates over time (particularly depending on how much care was taken to mix it properly). With my Careel I found why it was happening and then ran a line of sikaflex along the join. On of the other Careel guys actually split the deck and reglued and re rivetted it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim731 Posted May 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2015 Thanks for the advice. I won't need to do the rudder pintles they have been done on both hulls already. I was trying to avoid putting hatch covers in that's why I was looking at splitting the deck and hull. Are the staples just there to hold it all in place while the glue drys between them??I don't have a compressor to do an air leak test so I think filling them with water and going along with a chronograph pencil might be the go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darcy1945 Posted May 15, 2015 Report Share Posted May 15, 2015 Just blow in the bung hole, as if blowing up a balloon, have someone listen for, and mark, leaks. This method has never failed for me. Yes, the staples are used as you surmised. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pointed Reply Posted May 15, 2015 Report Share Posted May 15, 2015 Don't use a compressor, much too much pressureUse a vacuum cleaner on gentle blow or just blow by your mouth up the bung hole (of the boat)......Put some soapy water in a spray bottle and spay on all suspect areas and watch for bubbles (getting worse). Hull joins, tramp, beam to hull bolts, rudder pindles, bung hole seals.You can do it by yourself with the vacuum cleaner but will need a friend for the (being careful with words here) .. manual inflation.Oh dear ..... I would be rather worried about filling the hulls with water. That is a lot of weight and if not supported properly (ie only on two rollers on the trailer) I would be concerned about breaking the boat in half. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knobblyoldjimbo Posted May 16, 2015 Report Share Posted May 16, 2015 Yes, I forgot the blow through the bungs method. Never suggested you fill the hull with water, just elevate the bow, take the bungs out gently pour water along the black rubbers and see if it starts to dribble out. If you use a compressor then you'll probably have the hull deck join go! If you buy a $5 hosepipe then you won't mind putting it in your mouth! When I did have bungs I found that these just fit into the bung hole with quite a good seal. You blow then spray the soapy mix as a mist. You should soon find the problem. Have you checked the pressure release holes and tubes, the tubes need to be out of the way of water so it doesn't get in there - those holes will let in quite a bit of water if they are open. Remember that hydraulic pressure caused by a hull being forced into the water by the action of the wind and sails is quite significant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim731 Posted May 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2015 Hey Guys. Thanks for all the help and advice. My dad was down over the weekend and we had a better look at the mari I picked and we decided after cleaning it up and doing a bit of a test around the gunwhale and all over the deck we decided that we would change over the hulls and use the new ones. So we cleaned it all up and put it back together with a bit of goop in on the joins. We also removed and cleaned up the mast plate on the forward beam, its amazing how corroded they are underneath. The problem that I have is on the STBD hull theres the rivot repair that doesnt look very good and doesnt allow the rubber to go back on. Dad suggested heating up the rubber and try and squeeze it over the rivots. How do you suggest I fix the repair up. Theres a few photos that I've put up in the gallery. Cheers in advance guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darcy1945 Posted May 21, 2015 Report Share Posted May 21, 2015 I would just cut out neatly to fit around the rivet tails, and glue that section of the rubber (The rubber is only cosmetic, I never fitted it to my previous boat) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
riledup3016 Posted June 9, 2015 Report Share Posted June 9, 2015 Tom I have had to repair both sides on my maracay it is an easy repair with out having to put more caps and holes in your boat, I can easy explain how just call 0415496688, I've repaired quite a few now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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